|
Audio Asylum Thread Printer Get a view of an entire thread on one page |
For Sale Ads |
98.221.76.71
I will probably be replacing the Soloist with either the Metrum Aurix or the Sennheiser HDVA 600 headphone amps.
My "now correctly voiced for anyone who can hear" HD800 headphones could use just a very slight touch (& I do mean slight) of warmth .
Are there any quick tweaks I might be overlooking . (Fuse, Quantam chip ?)
Follow Ups:
Just wondering: I thought my headphone amplifier was on the analytical side, but I realized that, it is accurate, and sounds better than my main system now. It had to burn in a while. I always believed -- that it was good -- because of the deep and quick bass response, though.
The Cardas Cross wire should warm up the sound, but you might want to try one of their more expensive cables if you want more resolution.
Thanks Paul, but I'm A-ok at this point as it was interconnect cable
related
I've had reasonably good performance using the ALO headphone cables I'd ordered while the HD800s were still in transit . It wasn't until a few months later I even tried the stock headphone cable'
A few people, myself included, have noticed that the Mad Scientist Audio Black Discii take some of the edge off of high frequencies. They also help out the soundstage and fine details, so they might work well for you.
I have the newest burson sl9018
With the sl 9018 it seemed a little thin in the mids and a little edge on top . What I did was went to gold plated power cords and hifi tuning fuses . I was using a old moster 5000 power center with stock gold power cord . I tried a Belkin power strip with nickel power cord and it sounded like ass . I also upgraded the hd650 cable which helped a lot .
Real warmth is found in the recording not in the wood. If anything the wood in this case induces a coloration much like some tubes do. Masking the distortions already existing in your system that give that cold and fatiguing sound might give one the impression that the presentation is now more musical. When in fact, it's really nothing but a bit less ear fatiguing.
Spare yourself the wood and look for proper line conditioners if you want to start to extract more from your recordings, including real warmth. I emphasize proper because there are many improper line conditioners that either do nothing or induce their own sonic harm.
I'm really sorry that I ever posted this,as this was nothing more then a
"momentary" impression (that I ended up resolving within about 30mins,after
thinking about recent changes to my system)Thanks for all the suggestions though. (& thanks for confirming I'm not
singular in thinking that DACs are actually the place where tonal characteristics are being derived from.)I find it pretty entertaining the # of novices who automatically assume that they need to use tubed amplification to "warm up the sound". My normal
thought is, "They may need a better DAC" (Oh you went "line conditioner"
not "DAC". I'm good there also.)Thanks anyhow
~steve
Edits: 02/13/15
plus the famous Pass $ Seymour 15A ac plug.
For free, I would put some different types of wood on the device, or under it. What a component sits on will influence its sound. Its free to try.
Michael Percy carries it.
E
T
If there is a WoodCraft shop in the neighborhood, they have a lot of Southern Hemisphere hardwoods available as blocks. Strap a block to the bottom of the unit and remove the cover and see what the results are could yield useful results.
I have a solid state headphone amplifier that is a bit on the lean/hard side, but when the AC improves, I don't mine at all. So having clean AC is helpful, too, maybe with a power conditioner or new power cord.
Try some teak or Mahogany.
Hmmm...
Maybe some Brazilian Rosewood & Ebony will be perfect when I listen to my
Classical Guitar recordings.
Having about $4k in power filtration & chords, changing my ICs worked
the trick !
Thanks any way
-steve
I agree with what Duster said completely. The only other choice would be internal mods to the Burson. Maybe you could expound on all the AC delivery and cabling. On vibration control most times a more compliant type would likely "soften" things.
E
T
Actually ,after Duster mentioned it, I did end up changing the interconnects I was using between my Metrum Hex DAC & the Soloist
My thinking was, as "neutral" sounding as I'd been able to bring my HD800 to the interconnects that I switched to would possibly "now" perform as I'd hoped they would when originally installed them in a different incarnation of my system. They were a bit "etched" sounding then & remained so this time around
Long story,short the interconnects I "had" been using have actually moved the Soloist character to solidly "neutral". I should know better than to assume things in this hobby; (I had spent 7x the amt for the ICs that are now sitting back in their wooden cases; so I had to try I guess!)
Thanks
-steve
Yes, nothing ventured, nothing gained. Also I have posted that I have made system changes and then reverted to older things due to the changes making the sound different. My last change was related to HF getting a bit bright due to other changes made after that cable was introduced. Luckily neither was really high dollar and I got one for free.
E
T
There are a number of things you can do as far as system tuning is concerned to customize the presentation. Vibration control devices, interconnect cables/connectors, AC connectors/AC outlets can be selected for specific tonal characteristics. Perhaps you can tell more about the voicing of your Sennheiser HD800 headphones, including how cabling might be involved.
Post a Followup:
FAQ |
Post a Message! |
Forgot Password? |
|
||||||||||||||
|
This post is made possible by the generous support of people like you and our sponsors: