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In Reply to: RE: Got some herbies spike decoupling gliders...jury is still out. posted by Duster on January 27, 2015 at 16:03:03
Thanks for reminding me. I was looking VH Audio's 18 AWG UniCrystal OCC copper a while ago. I have been thinking about a twisted pair of solid core wire for a while. That does look like very good wire and VH is a major sponsor of the Asylum. Chris gives a very clear description of the wire on his website.
A lot of the tope cable manufacturers do put a lot of effort into controlling resonance. Teflon tape does seem like an easy step to keep things working right, and it would heighten the mad scientist look of my system.
A long while ago I did run a twisted pair of solid core Rat Shack wire. It sounded good for what it was. It might be interesting to compare a identically constructed Rat shack wires to VH, although I suspect the VH would be substantially better. Still, it is good to hear for yourself, and unlike most endeavors like this, it would be very inexpensive. I have been very curios about the affect of better material, but usually, you cannot compare identical construction. This is getting very interesting!
Dave
Follow Ups:
I think your vintage Threshold CAS-1 power amplifier with Spendor BC-1 loudspeakers should be a suitable match when connected via *short-length* 1m DIY 18 AWG solid core OCC copper twisted pair speaker wire. The Threshold power amplifier provides high damping factor (150), and Spendor and other classic BBC monitors were often connected via simple small-gauge solid core bell wire by British DIY'ers back in the day. This is not to say 18 AWG is ideal for the application, but since the required length for your system is very short, I feel reasonably confident in this case. That said, if your Radio Shack wire is 18 AWG solid core, you might consider building a twisted pair wrapped with Teflon tape and solder-terminated with ordinary spades in order to hear the essential effect it presents before springing for expensive OCC wire and premium spades. I wouldn't want you to be disappointed by the results of pricey wire and connectors for a DIY experiment. Furthermore, building a low-cost prototype for a DIY cable project can be good practice before building a more optimized version for serious use.
I think that is an excellent idea, to try a low cost mock-up. Note that I have an M&K subwoofer (vintage always except CD), so the disadvantages of 18 AWG will not be apparent.
Dave
That's a good point. The Spendor has semi-rigid enclosure walls (as I've read) which may help provide a natural-sounding transition from main loudspeakers to subwoofer for good integration. Let the M&K handle the bottom end like it wants to. I used to use an M&K subwoofer. It was a musical sounding animal, but competed with the main loudspeakers implemented at the time which needed an active crossover filter.
Back in the day, the M&K/ Spendor BC-1 was a popular combination. There is a synergy. I am also letting the Spendors run full range and rolling in the M&K very low. I lucked into both (on separate occasions) for a song.
I found some RadioShack 18ga that I had lying around in a sealed package, and I am pretty sure I have some plumbers tape too. I was going to try it with bare copper striped wires, to see what I think. I will probably add spades later. I have some RadioShack spades but they are crimp on. I don't think they would be good with solder.
Dave
If the spades you have will allow a very good crimp with 18 AWG solid core, try that method rather than use bare wire. The solder termination is just to ensure a secure interface with good conductivity.
I will take a look, and if not, I am sure I can find something that will or will solder. Do you like lead-free for this application? I need to get some for an amp I am working on, regardless.
Dave
I use Wonder Signature Leaded Solder. It's the reformulated old-school Wonder Solder that's easy to work with and sounds good to me.
See link:
Price is very reasonable for a pound. Thanks for the recommendation!
Dave
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