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In Reply to: RE: Application of crystals on tubes. posted by unclestu on January 07, 2015 at 12:17:25
My free samples of BD came with some sticky substance, but I'm not sure whether that can be used on tubes.
Follow Ups:
Not sure on the BD compound, but a few years back I learned not to use BlueTac or similar when serious heat is involved. Makes a sticky mess that's not easy to clean up. This may be old news, but I had to throw it out there.
Tightly. Maybe use a HERBIE'S tube damper to fold the cylinder together and place the crystals at the top
I do't like wrapping the entire glass body with copper as it restricts air circulation. OK for small signal tubes , but definitely not for power tubes.
I wrap the tubes with copper tape from the bottom up to the edge of the first mica sheet. Wrapped when cold and tightly, you can then solder an overlapping edge to keep the copper from unwrapping.
While not quite the same effect, the copper simulates those rare and expensive metal base tubes: i.e. metal base 5AR4's, metal base El-34's, and sylvania metal base 6SN7's. The true metal base tubes have the base attached to a pin ( check with older tube manuals).
I wrap even ordinary 12xx7's with 1/4 inch copper tape in the same way. You more detail, better highs, but only if you want more.
Some may not like the effect but then the copper is easily removed. On an RL-34, the copper wrap on the base makes it sound more like a 6550, but agin that may not be everyone's liking
They will melt on your 6C33. The tube tops are large enough so that you really don't need a mastic to hold them in place. For normal power tubes a tinest amount will do the trick
N/T
Use an 1/8th inch ball of blue tack.
It will melt but is easily cleaned up.
Quake Hold (museum putty) (www.quakehold.com) works very well and is inexpensive. Resists heat very well.
Edits: 01/08/15
Hi. Marvin;
Long time, no see....
Thanks for your info on the Quake-Hold. This should do the trick for a non-audio project that my daughter has for me.
Take care....old guy
N/T
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