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In Reply to: RE: Application of crystals on tubes. posted by carcass93 on January 07, 2015 at 11:36:04
Not universally applicable, but I like a rock between the tube pins, say in an octal/9-7 pin base socket, May not work in some octal PCB sockets as you need the depth for the tube guide pin. I use it in my nine/seven pin sockets with nice effect.
As for the Black discus, drilling the smaller units and placing on top of tubes is really eye opening, sonically. I do admit that in some applications I notice a slight roll off, or perhaps the BD brings out the mids and bass so much more that it overpowers the highs. There a crystal on top of the BD noticeably helps.
I find that often times a combination of different "tweaks" works well with each other, so please do not discount a combination of them, as confusing as it can be at times.
Follow Ups:
My free samples of BD came with some sticky substance, but I'm not sure whether that can be used on tubes.
Not sure on the BD compound, but a few years back I learned not to use BlueTac or similar when serious heat is involved. Makes a sticky mess that's not easy to clean up. This may be old news, but I had to throw it out there.
Tightly. Maybe use a HERBIE'S tube damper to fold the cylinder together and place the crystals at the top
I do't like wrapping the entire glass body with copper as it restricts air circulation. OK for small signal tubes , but definitely not for power tubes.
I wrap the tubes with copper tape from the bottom up to the edge of the first mica sheet. Wrapped when cold and tightly, you can then solder an overlapping edge to keep the copper from unwrapping.
While not quite the same effect, the copper simulates those rare and expensive metal base tubes: i.e. metal base 5AR4's, metal base El-34's, and sylvania metal base 6SN7's. The true metal base tubes have the base attached to a pin ( check with older tube manuals).
I wrap even ordinary 12xx7's with 1/4 inch copper tape in the same way. You more detail, better highs, but only if you want more.
Some may not like the effect but then the copper is easily removed. On an RL-34, the copper wrap on the base makes it sound more like a 6550, but agin that may not be everyone's liking
They will melt on your 6C33. The tube tops are large enough so that you really don't need a mastic to hold them in place. For normal power tubes a tinest amount will do the trick
N/T
Use an 1/8th inch ball of blue tack.
It will melt but is easily cleaned up.
Quake Hold (museum putty) (www.quakehold.com) works very well and is inexpensive. Resists heat very well.
Edits: 01/08/15
Hi. Marvin;
Long time, no see....
Thanks for your info on the Quake-Hold. This should do the trick for a non-audio project that my daughter has for me.
Take care....old guy
N/T
Additional placement recommendation:
close to the leads of coupling caps (both ends). They work placed on the middle of the cap body, but are much more effective closer to the leads
remember the film caps are generally windings, so there is a lot of EMF fields generated through the axial windings. Similarly the tube pins extending downward creates a lot of interaction between the various voltages carried by the pins, hence the effectiveness of the crystals.
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