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In Reply to: RE: Outstanding Cone Speaker Tweak! posted by rick_m on December 04, 2014 at 19:06:30
Thank you, Rick.Rope caulk adds nothing to aesthetics... however do hope that members may regard a major speaker upgrade for $35 to be worth the visual sacrifice. Incidentally I rolled a circular object over the rope caulk to flatten it as smooth as possible in order to minimize disruption of the exiting air flow/ pressure.
DG
p.s. When unscrewing from and planning to return each set of six manufacturer's ferrous screws to the speaker cabinet, be sure to put the set of six down on the floor in the same relative position as they belong in the cabinet. This minimizes the frustrating experience of finding ferrous screws have a tendency to refuse to go back fully into any other than their original holes. By contrast brass screws eliminates that complexity and 36 sources of EMI at stroke.
Edits: 12/05/14Follow Ups:
3M rope caulk , automotive type. Expensive at NAPA, cheap on eBay . IT is black and extremely sticky. Aesthetically better though.
Uncle Stu,
The closest to a black version of rope caulk is Gardner Bender's 'Duct Seal' @ $2.98 for a pound - slightly softer perhaps, yet much less distracting to the eye when attached to speaker basket arms and surrounds.
DG
DG-
what are the components in your system, including, cables & power cords?
Fantja,
My system is humble but here you go...
Visible.
Pair of Vienna Acoustic Mestro Grand Speakers connected by a pair of Ridge Street Alethia speaker cables
LFD LE4 Integrated Amplifier powered by Shunyata 1.5m Venom 3 Power Cable
Denon CDP/DVD 2910 connected by Audioquest 0.5 meter King Cobra Interconnects/ Audioquest Cinnamon HDMI and powered by the 'Magic Cable' (- the best value 14 AWG replacement for stock power cord available.)
Invisible in a neighboring room.
IFI iDAC powered by IFI iUSB Power and connected by Ultra Fi dual-headed USB cable
IFI iTube connected by pair of:
Ridge Street ½ Meter Poiema111 R-v3 Signature Interconnects
Audioquest 1 meter King Cobra Interconnects
Mid-2011 MacMini powered by Shunyata 1.5 meter Venom Digital Power Cord
1.0TB Buffalo MiniStation Thunderbolt connected by an Ultra Fi 0.5 meter Thunderbolt cable
Avatar Acoustic Afterburner8 AC wall outlet replacements with two Furutech/ a Maestro wall outlet covers.
DG
The OP is advocating to modify the bass alignment of the speaker box via rope-caulk bass ports... seriously? I guess those gaskets manufacturers put in place are there just to eat the efficieny :)
Uncle Stu,
Thank you for your characteristic helpfulness. Am looking for a thinner substitute for rope caulk to achieve a smoother exit of the air-pressure from each speaker.
Incidentally have the found that substituting black 1/16” Neoprene 60 Duro gasket rubber for Teflon tape between the bottom, front, back and sides of the amplifier case and for cork between the volume pot and selector units and the case leads to a desirable increase in power and musical detail.
DG
Dryginger2,Would you post a picture of how you implemented the Neoprene mod to the amp?
a picture is worth a thousand words. LolPS: how tight are you putting the screws in for the Neoprene mod?
~D
Wherever you go there you are.
Edits: 12/08/14 12/08/14 12/08/14
D,Sorry, the focus of my point-and-shoot doesn't take close-ups of dark grey objects like my amplifier.
Just use Neoprene to interrupt the frequency vibration conflicts between the twelve parts of the outer case - 4 horizontal meetings of bottom with sides, front/ back plates, 4 vertical meetings of sides with front & back plates and 4 horizontal meetings of top with sides, front & back plates.
Have concluded that 1/8" cork is in fact better for insulating IEC unit, volume pot and selector switches from the amplifier case. One trick is to wind Teflon tape on to the stem of the volume pot and selector units sufficient to insulate them as they go through the amplifier front plate. If it's then possible to squeeze a nylon washer on the volume pot's stem before attaching the lock-nut, that's desirable further insulation. As Uncle Stu has advised, wrapping these stems with Teflon tape before attaching their control knobs is desirable.
I found inserting thin cork on the inside and outside between the back plate and each speaker output reduced the vibration and increased sound image focus. The Interconnect inputs are the most sensitive of all and nothing more than molded rubber o-rings seems to work there in my experience. Don't forget to wrap the fuse holders and the center of the fuses with Teflon tape, lift the circuit board and insert 1/8" cork to isolate it from vibrations carried through the amplifier case. I could go on:-)
DG
P.S. How tight are the screws? Reasonably.
Edits: 12/08/14
I want to thank you Dryginger2, Uncle Stu, Duster, and many others for the audio work you do and sharing your information. I am learning a lot from all of you.
~D
Wherever you go there you are.
Ah, I was wondering if something like that might be available.
Thanks Stu...
Rick
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