|
Audio Asylum Thread Printer Get a view of an entire thread on one page |
For Sale Ads |
72.130.96.11
In Reply to: RE: OLD Tweak posted by pc123v on October 03, 2014 at 23:58:01
Do not know what happened to my reply
I am not familiar with the Hyperions, but the photots seem to indicate they are using a machine screw into a threaded insert: most likely metric thread. I would simply take out one screw per driver ( it will not hurt your speakers and you can still play them) and take the saple to a hardware store to identify them ( length as well as thread size) Then you can correctly buy the equivalent in brass.
The brass equivalent won't have the hex head but you can use a phillips head countersunk screw
Good luck
Follow Ups:
Unclestu...what I meant was...any pointers on how to get the torque as evenly distributed as possible?
Thanks.
To worry. exchange screws one at a time. if you want to be more meticulous, change screws like tightening car wheel. move to the screw opposite from where you started, moving in a basic star shaped pattern.
in changing screws one at a time, simply snug down the new screws.A lot of force is not necessary at all since other screws are supplying enough tension.
Hi Unclestu,
Sorry for the numerous questions. I am unable to find a store that carries the screw (identified as wood screw by store clerk)in brass. Only equivalent I am able to find is stainless steel (non magnetic 316). Worth the trouble?
Thanks so much.
PS I don't think my speakers are using threaded inserts.
Stainless will give you 90% of the benefits of brass.
Hi Dryginger2 and Unclestu,
@ Dryginger2...Glad to hear this tweak is working out for you. Did you get all the brass screws from Mcmaster-carr? Is it the #8 3/4 or 5/8? From their catalog...I see I do not see the brass screw with the philips round head. Wondering if you still have the product numbers?
Anyways, I am having the hardest time finding the brass screws with the same kind of "threading" as the ferrous ones that I am using now. What I thought were the correct ones, from a hardward store, turned out to be different upon closer inspection.
@Unclestu and Dryginger2...does the threading have to be exactly the same? For example...on my current #8 3/4 inch ferrous ones...there are only 6 threads (doesn't seem like many). I have not seen Mcmaster's #8 3/4 or 5/8 inch...do you know approx how many threads there are?
Will be using #8 3/4 for tweeters....and #8 5/8 for midrange and woofers. I am now wondering whether it's ok to use all 3/4 since is only just a little longer than 5/8. Bad idea?
Unclestu...sorry for being such a pest...:)
Thanks so much.
pc123v,
Suspect that you are over-thinking the whole subject. Did warships in early years have the precise range or did they bracket by sending shells too far and too close in order to find the target's range?
Just buy some packs of a few #8 brass woods screws in several lengths from half-an-inch up to the length of the ferrous originals which in my case 1.25". Try one from each length size and discover which fits tight and unscrews afterwards. If you're lucky as I was, there will be one. In my case it was the brass #8 1.25" length equivalent to my ferrous original.
You may have a general preference for Torx, Phillips or slotted but it hardly matters in my experience which type of head is supplied in the context of ensuring that you get brass because they all work.
Don't be intimidated, just act with cautious confidence and replace a screw at a time and see what works. That's all anybody does. Mistakes and failure provide the information for success. Good luck!
DG
Thanks Unclestu. By the way...I don't own a torque screwdriver. Gonna have to use a normal screwdriver. Would that be ok? Any pointers on how to get the right torque?
Thanks again...:)
Post a Followup:
FAQ |
Post a Message! |
Forgot Password? |
|
||||||||||||||
|
This post is made possible by the generous support of people like you and our sponsors: