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On the Goldpoint site there are resistor charts for 5K,10K, etc...
The table below the resistor values for each step, how are they connected?
For example a 10K attenuator.
Is a 10K resistor in line with the signal?
Then the table value resistors are individual shunt resistors?
Are the table resistors all in series from 0db for full?
What is the difference between this arrangement and one with a varied signal resistor and varied shunt resistor?
Sorry for these stupid questions.
Follow Ups:
are the SMD Goldpoint offers the same, better or worse than buying individual resistors form Mouser?
charles
I found the SMD Goldpoint to be excellent but never made a comparisons to options. Tbat being said, soldering SMDs is a challenge, at least for ancient eyes n an occasionally shaky hand.
I've used a passive with my Low Watt, High Efficiency system forever.
Gone from TKD to PEC and back, then Goldpoint with Dales and finally for the last 6 years, this SMD from Valabs , $25 bucks. A little fussy to wire but beats them all at having no "sound".
Ask me about the Yamaha Silent Brass
For SMD, do not use thick films. They are noisy and not as good as thin film (metal film).
Heck, I'm not soldering those bug size chips! My eyes and neck are the reason I gave up fixing old stereos. Sure I wasn't very good, or had any formal training, but I enjoyed toying around. And occasionally actually fixing one or two.
So basically these chips are nothing more than a fancy potentiometer shunt resistor. So what's the big deal? The signal can be sent through a better resistor. Like a Vishay or other metal film.
charles
Are non inductive n of course eliminates a lot of lead length, comparatively. I like the nakedvishays but they are only slightly larger. Of course SMDs are cheap.
I've found regular resistors far better. I've replaced SMD's in many components and always helps a great deal. Its the first mod I do. The SMD guys push SMD as better, but in my experience its not close.
I used to use a lot of Vishays, but the ones they make nowadays just don't seem to sound as good. So I looked around for alternative and am very pleased with Neohm Ultra Precision Wirewound (UPW) series. They sound better than even old nude vishays imho. ymmv etc. I buy from RS Components, but they are made by TE Connectivity, which is not a small company..they are not cheap, maybe $10-20 a pop. Also they don't do a huge range of values. But great for critical resistors in dacs, feedback loops, and of course, attenuators.
Ayre made a hand built stepped attenuator for their K1xe, that although very expensive (so much so that they decided not to make that model any more) was excellent in every respect. I think they have something on their website that explains it....you might be interested.
resistors are in series with each other. The switch position determines how many resistors are directly in line with signal. The quieter the volume desired the more resistors are in the path.
Remember that when breaking in unit. You have to leave on highest volume setting to break in all resistor joints (turn amp off)
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