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In Reply to: RE: For what it's worth. posted by jea48 on July 20, 2014 at 21:44:12
I don't believe they are UL listed.
Follow Ups:
Then why use it if there's no protection guarantee?
When your UL rated device fails and causes catastrophic damage, will UL pay replacement costs?In fact will they issue any kind of guarantee?
Just curious.....
"When your UL rated device fails and causes catastrophic damage, will UL pay replacement costs?In fact will they issue any kind of guarantee?"
That's an interesting question because as we all know UL stands for Underwriters' Laboratory which was set up by the insurance companies (underwriters) to ensure that electrical products sold for the home are safe. The reason is obvious: if they are going to pay damages for a fire (for instance) they want to ensure that electrical products in the home can not start a fire.
So the answer to your question is YES the insurance compay (obviously not UL) will pay to repair the damages. If there is an electrical fire in your home the underwriter (insurance company) WILL PAY. That is unless the insurance examiner decides that the owner of the home was negligent in installing UNAPPROVED electrical equipement in the home.
What are the chances that the insurance adjuster is going to check the fuses in your amp? Slim to none; so even if the fire that burns down your home was a result of a faulty fuse, the insurance company will pay. No doubt, the next fuse you buy after the fire will be UL approved.
Thanks Palustris... now I know what UL stands for.
Oh dear! Have you heard of a case of an approved fuse not doing what it's supposed to do? Are you suspicious of UL ratings? Are you condoning non-UL rated fuses? If you don't trust UL approved fuses, just short out the fuse holder. Is this what you do?
Edits: 07/21/14
Yep, when a Maggie ribbon blows and not the fuse
Sooo much emphasis on UL approval but what stereo components do you own carrying the UL seal? My guess if its a truly high end piece, nothing.....
Does Chevy carry UL approval? Obviously not since they are recalling all their ignition switches.... Do all your light recepticles have the UL stiamp? How bout your alarm clocks, or cell phones, or ipads, etc.?p
"How bout your alarm clocks, or cell phones, or ipads, etc.?"
They are class 2 devices Stu unless the alarm clock plugs directly in, so they don't need approval... Only the thing that changes the power line into a class 2, power limited circuit does. Usually that means the wall wart.
It's actually the local codes of one's cascade of governmental bodies that determine what's required. Things like the NEC are just suggestions unless referenced by local law, which is usually the case. In my state stuff that uses more juice than class 2 has to be "recognized". But they don't care by whom. UL is but one recognizing body.
Remember, governments are lawyers...
Rick
to check UL standards: Batteries, watches, portable tools, lots of stuff you wouldn't really believe
To be honest, it never crossed my mind to check for a UL listing. :-( this fuse sounds so much better than the stock one, it's hard to give up.
I have been in touch with Joseph Chow who sells the Audio Horizons Platinum Reference fuses. He used to be both a dealer of and also the the overseas support for Bussman. With respect to what fuses are supposed to do to protect components he know what he is talking about. He assures me that the design and construction of his AH fuses are rigorously tested and controlled and meet existing standards.
HiFi-Tuning and AMR fuses at least, the only two I've tried, have a tendency to blow more often than stock fuses. When I questioned John at The Cable Company about this, he said that HiFi-Tuning fuses are built to tighter tolerances than stock fuses (the latter of which have about a +10% tolerance) and as a result, will actually blow more quickly than the much vaunted "UL approved" fuses.
Joe
And did these fuses blow for a reason?
In two cases I was using old stock tubes that I probably shouldn't have and were twitchy -- so the fuses blew rather than melting a resistor if the fuses had held. In the other case I had/have an integrated that was sensitive to the initial power-on in-rush.
The latter problem was solved with going from a slow-blow to an extra slow-blow designed for exactly that situation. I had even sent the integrated in and was told that except for a slightly higher DC offset than ideal, there was nothing wrong with it.
I continue to use aftermarket fuses in my speakers and integrated and had previously used them in a CD player and a couple of amps. In no case did the equipment ever suffer any damage due to using properly rated aftermarket fuses.
Joe
You're one of the lucky ones. Check out Roger Modjesky at another site and see what he thinks of these kinds of fuses.
That was an excellent read! There was even something in it for the yea-sayers who don't want all their hard earned money to go to the fuse makers(soldering in silver wire). I haven't mad a decision on all of this. but I like to see all the opinions.
Dave
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