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Been doing this for over a decade now and it still works and works well. Duplex is a Leviton 5362 20 amp spec grade type:A good sounding and not very expensive unit. Noticeably improves picture quality on lines feeding video and of course helps audio. Maybe not as good as those boutique duplex outlets but at $12 each, certainly cheap enough.Most commercial duplex outlets have the separate outlets linked by the slotted strap visible on the top of the picture. It is rather small and obviously must limit some of the current flow. It is designed for installers to clip and separate the duplex outlets in case a switched outlet is desired.
I simply get a piece of wire equivalent to the line wire and jumper over the duplex slots. The 5362 has four holes in the back for attaching wires, so it is still available for the AC line.
Edits: 03/25/14Follow Ups:
"Most commercial duplex outlets have the separate outlets linked by the slotted strap visible on the top of the picture. It is rather small and obviously must limit some of the current flow. It is designed for installers to clip and separate the duplex outlets in case a switched outlet is desired.
I simply get a piece of wire equivalent to the line wire and jumper over the duplex slots. The 5362 has four holes in the back for attaching wires, so it is still available for the AC line."
The cross section of the strap is probably equal to or better than the wire jumper you install. If it "obviously" does limit current flow you have bigger problems at hand.
It is also best to use the screw to attach your wire to the outlet as it gives a torqued gas free connection. The best way to make a connection under a screw is to put the wire so that the clockwise tightening of it draws the wire in as you tighten (look at the right hand connection in your picture). Also use the strip gage on the outlet when removing the insulation. Then you can be sure to get the most surface area under the screw. Those holes you push the wires into are spring clips. These can and do limit current flow and are a known problem with poor connections. They are put there because of builders who do not want to spend the time to do it correctly........ Just sayin'.
examined a 5362 duplex outlet.
The screws on the side of the body can be used as you described, but they also control a compression clamp mechanism in the body itself which makes an even better connection than the wrap method you espouse. Plus, you can tighten them a bit harder than the wrap method
Empirical Audio's Steve N. would solder the screw driver opening in that tab.
I've tried that, and even tried soldering a short length of copper wire onto the tab. The u shaped wire works better. More dynamics, among other things
Is it the shape of the wire or the gauge that imparts the impression of more dynamics?
I believe it is the mere fact that the brass slot narrows down to meet the two duplex contacts. As I said, I have tried soldering over a wire but then the junction of the slotted area and the main duplex contacts still necks down. In fact, I believe one reason why some of those audiophile duplexes sound so good is that they eliminate the slotted tab area and use one large continuous piece of contact material.It doesn't hurt that copper is a better conductor than brass or solder either. I usually use a 12 gauge jumper, BTW, and stagger the incoming AC line to give a more equitable spread of the current (one lead to top duplex, one to bottom duplex)
YMMV of course
Edits: 03/26/14
The small tab that acts as a bridge is not only made smaller by the slot intended for the use of a screw driver as a crowbar, the tab is also *severely scored* for easy break-off. From an audiophile POV, I would call that a damaged conductor.
"stagger the incoming AC line to give a more equitable spread of the current" ?????? Is this dealer mumbo jumbo?
dealer mumble jumble ! Became aware of the issue when plugging two mono block amps after repair and noticed one sounded slightly louder. Scoped them and measured but they all measured fine. then I reversed the plug position and the louder amp reversed itself....Do I have a patent on the idea so I make can make millions off of it?
No sirree. You can ignore what I have written, and that is indeed your prerogative. For many though who try this, it is a relatively cheap means improving sound.The mod doesn't cost a cent and merely takes a few minutes of your time if you already have the duplex outlet. Hell, you can pick up that 5362 duplex outlet at most Home Depots, hardly a high end audiophile marketplace and avoid those $200 plus outlets. I use a Leviton but all major companies make a 5362 spec grade outlet, being that it is a NEMA code item.
Sheesh.......
Edits: 03/26/14
Is there a Time Limit?
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What does it do to make a better connection than the tab? Is there a screw to tighten when you push the wire in or is it a spring knife edge making the connection ? I don't have one handy to try at the moment.
5362 is a standard NEMA code. It has four holes in the back on each side and a clamping mechanism tpo hold down the wires. NO cheesy knife edge connectors: these are much beefier and more secure. You can see the screws that tightens the clamping mechanism. Also notice the ground strap is also brass instead of steel.
OK now I got you, I was thinking it was like the back hole connections like the cheap ones, it's late and I am not paying enough attention lol
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