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I've been going through my stash and looking to get rid of some items that I either don't use or don't need. Since I have a 539C and a TV-7 tube tester, the 539A rose to the top of the list.
I powered it up and it seemed ok, but then, it wouldn't move the meter for the mutual conductance test. I checked gas and the meter itself definitely works but not when I press P4.
I haven't used this tester in quite a while and it worked fine and matched my tests on the 539C when I last used it. Now, it seems to be broken. So, my options are to find someone to fix and calibrate it or to just cut my losses.
Who might I contact on repairs? Any suggestions on simple problems that I should check before sending it out for repair?
Thanks!
-Rod
Follow Ups:
I have two 600A testers. If they quit reading, it's usually the #83 rectifier tube not heating. Cleaning the socket or removing then reinstalling the tube restores operation.
Yeah, I was thinking that checking the tubes would be a good first shot. Thanks.
-Rod
I have restored one of these A models, it's a nice piece but doesn't carry the value of the B or C models. Several problems with these testers I would check is the buttons switch bank, those will often not work correctly causing the meter not to register, use a non-residue contact cleaner on that bank and see if that does the trick. Also, those spool resistors will open quite easily, if one or more are bad you can repair them, although I just replace them with 1% resistors and be done with that problem. The cap across the meter is no big deal, I would replace if it is old, but whatever. There is also a paper cap in there I would replace, the old ones can go leaky because of the acid in the paper, easy enough to replace. Finally, you will need to calibrate it otherwise you have no accurate response to your tests, I believe that Roger Kennedy is out your way. I do repairs and calibrations on these Hickoks, but I am in the DC metro area, and its not cheap, FWIW...
Yeah, I talked to Roger and he surely knows what he's doing and appears to do a totally thorough job. If it was a C model or if I didn't already have a good C model, I'd drive it up to him in a heart beat. I just don't know if it's worth $400 to $500 to completely restore this one.
-Rod
yes, that 539A is probably worth around $500, maybe a little more, would be better to sell it and let someone else do the work, if that is your goal, otherwise give the switch bank a cleaning and see if that works and then calibrate it.
If and when you find someone who can still work on these (in California) please let me know as I have a 539 (B or C?) that needs a general going over and the 9 pin socket replaced.
Not easy to work on and easily damaged when removing the top plate, IIRC. lots of brittle switches, wire, etc. due to age. Been over a decade since mine has been powered up. :-(
Roger Kennedy in Torrance seems to be the 'go to guy'.
-Rod
We're probably going to be driving down to Long Beach visit the wife's family in the coming months.
Rather drive it down that ship it. And no hurry in any event as I just want to get it fixed up before everyone who knows how to work on one disappears.
And before I do as well! =:-0
What part of So. Cal. are you in?
I would take a look at it for you.
Both the 539b and the Triplet 3444 had serious issues when I bought them but I got both working without too much trouble.
Tre'
Have Fun and Enjoy the Music
"Still Working the Problem"
> > What part of So. Cal. are you in?
North San Diego County, but we also make frequent trips up to West LA. I'd surely appreciate any help from someone with a soldering gun that cost more that $7.99 at Radio Shack.
-Rod
I'm in Ojai, just 13 miles inland from Ventura.
If you bring it up I would take a crack at it for you.
I was just given a non-working Hammond L-143 organ. I have no use for it and they are hard to give away but being semi-retired, with time on my hands, I took it just for the challenge.
The only thing wrong with it was the tone generator. It hadn't been oiled in a long time and was completely locked up. It works great now and looks real good (cherry wood cabinet in very nice shape for a 50 year old organ) but I still have no idea what I will do with it. Nobody wants them. If it was a B3 that would be different.
Tre'
Have Fun and Enjoy the Music
"Still Working the Problem"
Thanks Tre. That's a bit of a trek from West LA, we will be up there the weekend of October 31. If none of the simple fixes work out, perhaps that Sunday might be an opportunity to head north before going south. I appreciate the offer.
-Rod
Opus 33 1/3
given your and other recent posts about tube testers.
About an hour ago I was handed a Philco 9100, a rebadged and layout-rearranged Hickok 533A, by a neighbor who's finally clearing out a number of his long-deceased father-in-law's effects. His father-in-law had been a longtime Altec employee dating back to the VOT heyday. The neighbor had walked across the street and said, "In cleaning stuff out, I found this Philips [sic] tube tester, and I wondered if you knew anyone"--he paused--"besides you who'd be interested in it." I just looked back at him, and after a few seconds, he said, "YOU." He came back with it in hand a few minutes later. I wanted to give him something for it, but he waved off the offer.
Haven't checked it out yet, but it looks near-mint and, having known the father-in-law, it's not a piece he'd have let hang around broken. Since I don't have any others in-house, it's a keeper. And if the meter doesn't work, I'll check the cap first.
Jim
http://jimtranr.com
You must try to fix it. Take the time to research. Lots of online resources exist. The old Noel Lee info was mysteriously withdrawn, but some slick folks recycled some of the info. Military repair manuals, like the TV-7 TM-11 is a good start.
Chances are that the link to that TM-11 reprint will also have some added "hints and tricks" courtesy of the good repair folks out there. I have seen a reprinted manual for a 600A series which had some good tricks and cool calibration info included. Certainly, a $15-$20 reprinted 539A manual/test data/cal & tricks info included buy on epay will make the resell worth that much more. But, before you spend some money, go googlin...
The trick to free a stuck meter with bits of masking tape held carefully, removing the offending stuck dirt or metal sliver can be seen in print for free. Likewise, that electro across the meter might do the trick. DO NOT wire a battery across any meter without a resistor bleeder installed to test the meter. Meters are easily damaged; but you know yours will work since Line Adjust is OK. Research, plan the attack, conquer the technical obstructions and stardom with richer pockets awaits your smiles...
The meter isn't stuck. It moves and pegs on the gas test which it shouldn't do. It just won't move on the conductance test. I wish I had the knowledge and skills to tackle this on my own, but I really don't have the test gear and am just somewhat proficient with a soldering iron. Basically, I program computers, I don't build them.
-Rod
OK, I understand your frustration. Maybe, some research first, and/or let someone with more repair experience, semi-nearby give it a try... Tre gave a nice offer...Tre might be the man. He is a good guy !
That tester is worth much more working and wouldn't it be cool if it once again tested like your other 539 ? Best of Luck with the resto...
I totally agree. While I really know just enough to be dangerous with this gear, I suspect that it's likely something fairly simple like a cap that goes bad with age.
It used to totally match the 539C readings until I didn't use for too long.
-Rod
There's surprisingly not many caps and resistors inside one of those....though a ton of connections between dials and leads up the ying-yang coming off the iron. I've got two up and working. My first repair cost me a hundred....the second was 200. I did not do the repairs.
"I can't compete with the dead". (Buck W. 2010)
meter failure is usually the electrolytic cap across the meter.
Simple fix.
Stu
That would be simple and perhaps explains why it worked fine 7 or 8 years ago and not today. However, the meter does work for gas, but it's erratic. For the conductance test, it won't budge. For the gas test, it was pegging the meter. Then later, it worked fine and as expected for gas.
I then checked the same tube on my 539C to be sure it was good and went back to the 539A. Then, the gas test did nothing but peg the meter.
Is there an easy way to check a cap? I'm not quite dangerous with a soldering iron and do have a basic ohm meter.
-Rod
Considering the age I would change it out anyway. It's cheap enough.
Most testers are simply switchers and while I can not say I have worked on the 539, but that cap change on others like TV-7's works well for minimal cost and effort.
Thanks. That sounds like a simple fix that I could do and I do have the manual which is like 16 pages typed on an IBM typewriter, but it does have a schematic which I may have to post so someone can tell me the value of the cap.
The line voltage meter is a bit odd too, pegs, rather reading 120 like my other 539. Would that be the same type issue?
-Rod
Forgive me if my questions are too fundamental given that you have use other testers. Is your line adjust adjusted? I am having some problems with my Hickok getting the line adjust centered. Have you followed the chart for all the other parameters? do you have a Bogey tube? All though is is a bit overwhelming look at the P4 switch from under to top board. I once had an Hickok which I and the guys before me wore out the P4. I didn't have any good way to fix it, but perhaps someone could help you if the switch no longer makes the makes the correct contacts.
Steve
The thought did cross my mind about the button, but it worked fine 10 years ago. And the P4 lock button gives the same result, nothing.
What is a Bogey tube?
-Rod
A "Bogey tube" is just a 6L6 with known gm.
Tre'
Have Fun and Enjoy the Music
"Still Working the Problem"
Ah, thanks. I don't have one of those.
But I can compare signal tubes between it and the C model.
-Rod
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