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In Reply to: RE: George Wright WLA10 help posted by frperdurabo on April 26, 2015 at 14:33:44
Looks like it only lets me post one pic per message?
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And finally, the guts.
George often built a fair number of variants within a given model number.
You will have to get a digital voltmeter and start taking measurements. You will also very likely need to trace the circuit out to really figure out what is going to work in there.
I agree, but we don't know if fperdurabo is up to the job of tracing the schematic. Also, while the AC filament and (with caution) plate winding voltages can be measured without a working set of tubes, DC voltages will require an actual tube set installed. I am pretty confident the rectifier was a 6X4, and that 12BH7 or 6CG7/6GU7 (depending on the filament voltage for the signal tubes, as I posted above) should work for the signal tubes, whether optimally or not. The regulator tube is hard to tell, but I think it has to be a dissimilar dual triode like the 6DR7. It isn't a 6BM8, and any other triode/pentode, regardless of pinout, would need all 9 pins in use (including to triode-strap the screen grid) while in this unit pin 2 on that socket is unused.
I looked up the tubes you mention above. The 6x4 and 6DR7 "look" like they might have been in it (it's been 12 years+ since I last used it). But the driver tubes were taller and skinnier. I THINK I still have one, but it has absolutely no markings on it at all. I'll take a photo tonight and post.
Thanks for your help! I liked the sound of this unit very much, albeit it has too much gain for anything but a flea power amp - I wound up using 15db attenuater plugs with it, IIRC. It didn't sound "tubey" - it was clean and extended in both directions.
I did a search and somebody said that winter 1999 issue of Listener Magazine
had a review of that preamp. I can't help you find that issue but I hope that helps.
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