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Just purchased a used Jungson tube cdplayer that came with reissue Mullard tubes and they sound good in the highs and mids but the bass
doesn't have much weight or punch and the soundstage could be better.
Any ideas on tubes that might fill in the lower octaves and do soundstaging any better but keep the nice mids and non bright highs.
I know thid might be asking alot but I really don't want to pay more then 50$ a tube and that are easily available. cheers
Edits: 11/01/14Follow Ups:
"bass doesn't have much weight or punch and the soundstage could be better."
There's always the possibility the CDP doesn't fit well in your system or that it's not that great to begin with. But if you want to try a different tube anyway, the Sylvania 12AT7 WA "triple mica" tubes and Siemens ECC81 tubes are excellent choices.
I had a Jolida tube cdplayer prior to this one and I really liked its sound till it crapped out on me. I thought I'd give this Jungson a try because the price was right and the few reviews I could find were fairly positive. After hearing it in the set up I got alittle worried because it didn't have that Jolida "sound". You could be right and this player is inferior but I better roll some tubes before I pass the final judgement. Cheers
Edits: 11/04/14
RCA 12AT7 is a good sounding tube. Black plate or grey plate is good.
Under 50 bucks a tube, you say. No problem! Place an order for genuine English Mullard CV4024/12AT7 tubes from AA sponsor Jim McShane.
Eli D.
Many other NOS or just old stock tubes. They aren't terribly expensive if you pick cautiously. Given that I would try a few NOS 12AT7s and see if any of them make you happy.
A tube with a gain of 70 vs the 12AT7's 60 is the 5751. You may want to try a GE grey plate for example or a JAN tube, these can get very pricy. There are current production 5751s as well which are fairly inexpensive. They are used in place of 12AX7s in many instances so the other parameters may fit your application, I don't know.
Steve
They may be just what you're looking for.
The 12AT7 has a mu of 60, whereas an 12AY7 is 45. You'll end up with a slightly lower gain, which shouldn't be of consequence in your CD player output. It's basically just a buffer section anyway.
Better bass, more drive , and soundstaging are exactly what I experienced when interchanging them for 12AT7's in an integrated amp.
The Electro-Harmonix 12AY7's are incredibly good, with their sound right on par with NOS, and are around $20 a pop.
Cory
I like your idea, just worried I might do some damage to the player.
Other then that it sounds good. What's the worse that could happen?
The worst that could happen is that you wouldn't like the sound (I doubt it, though).
I can say that with confidence, because I just looked over the data sheets. 12.6v @ .15a series/ 6.3v @ .3a heaters on both, same pinout of course, and all other important aspects close. The 12AT7 can take a higher plate voltage, but your CD output stage won't be running them that hot. Now, I wouldn't swap them for 12AX7's (although guitar guys do it all the time).
I've tried all kinds of 12AT7's, including the really nice ones, and the 'AY's are the ones that stayed. My application is for the first gain stage of an integrated amp, so of course YMMV.
I do have an extra pair here, I could send them to you if you'd like to try them out.
Cory
Thanks for the offer of your spare tubes but I can grab some at the local guitar shop. Iam going to give those 12AY7 a good listen and if they don't pan out I spotted some Tungsram 12AT7 at the local hifi shop that get some good reviews. Thanks again. Jeff
Cool. Hey, do us a kindness if you could, and post your impressions once you've listened through them for a while. I'd be curious to know if your results mirror what mine have with the 12AT7 to 12AY7 swap.
Keep in mind also, there are a lot of good suggestions in this thread. As Mechans said, NOS/ UOS (and even new) 12AT7's are still plentiful and fairly inexpensive. All of the ones that have been suggested are good/ different. You may want to collect a few pairs over time, and find out which ones are best to your ears. And airtime makes a great point- impedance matching can work wonders for the sound.
Cory
Could be an impedance problem between source and pre/amp?
Cobble together a passive preamp.
GO to radioshack and take a 100k metal film 1/4watt resistor and put that in line with RCA cable signal. ANd use a 100k stereo pot as a variable to ground. See if your sound comes back.
charles
Check out GE's circa 1960's. I use them in my phono preamp and they are real nice. They are also inexpensive.
I'd get both...if they really do affect what you here. The Sylvanias are dark, but beautifully romantic. The S-H's are clean, with a great top end, but a little too dry for my tastes. There's a good contrast, here.
Observe, before you think. Think before you open your yap. Act on the basis of experience.
1960s Siemens & Halske 6201 3 mica, without a shadow of a doubt. More than $50 but superb in every respect...
Triple mica from the late 1950's to early 1960's will likely do it all for you.Don't know what they cost now but they were always quite inexpensive.I use them all the time and I do own several pairs of Mullards,not that I could afford them now, from 1958 and 1959.
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