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In Reply to: RE: Yes,it is very easy to do. posted by Michael Samra on September 28, 2014 at 10:58:14
I think I'll give it a shot. It seems where I could go wrong would be in putting too much heat on the pin and damaging the wire inside. It the true?
Follow Ups:
You will be fine..If you have a 25 to 40 watt iron,just leave it on the pin longer to heat up and reflow some solder..Like Pete said,try not to get too much of a blob because then you need to take some off.. A 100 watt works best like black plate said but if you don't have one,just use what you have.
Honest amplification is better than excessive 2nd order distortion anytime.
Is there a preferred type of solder for this application?
Basic rosin core is fine,either 63/37 or 60/40 and you can use the thinner size or medium.Radio Shack has solder.
Honest amplification is better than excessive 2nd order distortion anytime.
I resoldered the large pins on my 300b's this weekend and it definitely improved their sound. I didn't get the best results as the solder wick I used didn't do a great job of cleaning up the old stuff but I did more research and will try again. The new solder went on easily and looks ok. Not perfect but OK.
Here's the thing. I thought I needed a pin resolder as one tube kept cutting out. After the resolder, the tubes sounded better (especially in the highs) but 1 tube continued to cut out and 1 channel was stronger than the other. I swapped cables and tubes to find the problem. At one point, I had my headphones on with music playing and bumped the output selector switch (headphones/preamp). The dead channel came to life. I played with the rotary switch and found I could make the channel go in and out by pressuring the switch. I am guessing it is a dirty contact in the switch or possibly a bad solder joint.
Probably won't damage anything, but one issue I ran into was the need to avoid a solder blob, or solder peaks or other kind of solder buildup on the outside surface of the tube pins. Too much solder buildup on the outside surface of the pins could cause issues with the socket contacts, though it is more likely to be a problem if you were to add additional solder.
Next time, I plan to try just putting some solder flux on the end of the tube pin in the hopes of getting a really smooth reflow of the existing solder. Keeping the soldering iron tip real clean could help. Flux residue can be cleaned up after with isopropyl.
Anyway, just a few thoughts.
You would have to put in enough heat to actually melt the metal of the pins, which is unlikely.
If these are ceramic-based tubes, you could do this with a small butane torch. Otherwise, look for a 100W iron to allow for sufficient heating.
-PB
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