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In Reply to: RE: Tube rolling 12AU7 types in my ASL AQ-1001DT posted by Garg0yle on August 27, 2015 at 11:54:57
Yes, that's why I know they were matched. I matched them up on my TV-7.
f1jim
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Sorry i missed that.
Ya it's strange, but not really as these are mostly subjective opinions.
That being said, hold on to them, you might like them better in some other gear.
I have a preference for the clear tops and black plates as well.
Also thought the HP's sounded better then other grey plates.
I got a Philco that I really like too.
Most of my opinions (and others) are formed from using 12AT7's, 12AX7's, so I can't say how well that translates to the 12AU7s.
Your amplifier is probably some type of Chinese clone of some other amp, that might have something to do with it.
I don't mean that in a derogatory way, just who knows whats going on in there.
Use what sounds good and don't worry too much about it.
I agree with Blackdog though, check out the current on your heater string to be sure it can handle the KT150s.
Infamous sockpuppet
If your amplifier provides 6.3V filaments, you might try 6CG7 or 6FQ7, or if your amplifier provides 12.6V, you might try 12FQ7. They are all electrically identical or nearly so, to the 12AU7 or 12AU7 variant, but they sound way better, IMO. I think there is no re-wiring necessary, but check me on the filament pins. I do know that in a 12V supply, I replaced 12AU7 with 12FQ7 with no soldering required. Best 12AU7 I ever heard was the Amperex Bugle Boy, if you must stick to ECC82/12AU7.
6V filament. You would need to re-wire the sockets to accommodate. Other than that the 6FQ7 will work. They may give slightly more gain, but not a lot. You could also try the 12BH7 on the inner two 12AU7's.
I am concerned about running the KT150 though. The extra filament current may be a problem.
Dan Santoni
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