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In Reply to: RE: Low plate resistance vs. reputation for 'good tone". posted by Iczerman on November 16, 2010 at 11:15:45
After trying 26, 27, 01A, paralleled 12AX7, 6SN7's, ECC99, 5687, 6GK5, 12AT7, 12AV7, 6N1P, 6922, Amperex PQ 7119 and many others driving the 300B, the obvious winning choice was the 7119 for me.
10,000 hours rated, sounds great straight out brand new, tone is transparent and true (ECC99 can be a little lean at first and is far less reliable) and stays that way over time. The most neutral-to-shade-warm and non-fatiguing detailed sounding driver I have used for the 300B.
10, 10Y, 801A might be a real good one for DHT depending on 300B used. My 300B was a KR 300B-XLS, which is another neutral-to-slightly-warm tube. With 7119, the sound is sublime with all the advantages of SET and very little disadvantage to PP. With this high current low Rp tube 7119, it would take the detail of the 10 DHT to surpass it IMO, as it also sounds close to a very good DHT. The big 300B likes a strong drive from this kind of tube for best sound I think.
-Kurt
Follow Ups:
Just last week I taste tested the Amperex 7119 against the Sylvania 7044 driving a 2A3 in a "monkey" and the choice was easy: 7119.
I've tried quite a few of your list of tubes. I quite liked ECC99 and 6N1P (also E80CC and ECC40), but would prefer a 6SN7 or even better split that in two and use 6P5GT, 6J5G or 2C22 (7193).
But I'd prefer by quite a long way a 26 direct coupled to a 10Y.
Various variations - 01A, 30sp to a 46, 31 or 71a
Andy
Some are "light weights", meaning their filaments are thin and incapable of decent microphonics, such as using 01A as an input to the next driver.Less microphonic but not as transparent sounding to me is the 26 with its thicker and more stable filaments (that also requires more current). But, that 26 darkishness is complementary to the 10 slightly bright driver, but the gain is getting excessive for the 26 microphonics with that. This then sets the application for the amp to be for lower sensitivity speakers, a limitation. That is, unless a big effort is made to shield the 26 from vibrations. Or another useful thing might be to IT couple with some step-down to set proper gain overall, placed between 10 and 300B.
Going DHT is demanding over modern IDHT's, and much more costly, bulky, and heavy. But it usually is the most transparent. However, I have some idea that it may not always be since you go from 2 to 3 stages.
But I wish I could hear that 26-> 10-> 300B amp. It sounds promising.
-Kurt
Edits: 11/17/10
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