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In Reply to: RE: Friendly advice: Buy a kit (nt) posted by Presto on October 31, 2016 at 10:22:06
kit? do you mean mounting kit?
i can get wire dirt cheap & cut to length up the street where i'm buying my box, i already have distribution blocks but not a circuit breaker (for a power switch), and all of my interconnects.
the only thing i'll be needing is ring terminals for my battery(ies), but auto terminals are useless for my tiny quarter inch if that screw holes on my little 18aH battery. when the system is complete, i'll lay all the batteries on their sides "one on top of the other" so i can wire them up daisy chain style instead of wasting wire going into the distribution blocks that i'll use for adding accessories (power meter, EQ, inverter for light effects) instead of tying all the batteries together as i originally planned.
Follow Ups:
No.. I meant sub kit with driver, cabinet, and amp. Better bang for your buck...
If you're set up to do DIY it's good, but if not, all the materials can add up...
Cheers,
Presto
i already have my amp. it's a Planet Audio BB1200.4. before i decided on that, i was planning on using sure modules, but that caused issues. class D amps like higher voltages. if i used sure modules, i'd have a harder time finding power meters. i ORIGINALLY intended running my mains full range with a 100wpc amp and use inline passive crossovers for the subs with a 300-500w amp, but everyone lost their minds insisting on an active crossover which- would be way too complicated for me to build. i could do a speaker crossover, but not a line level active
- would be too expensive to buy (it's taken me a long time to be able to afford this, especially after my debit card expired and when i got my replacement, the bank stopped payments on my storage unit which got 3 months overdue WITH over a $100 in fees added on that i had to catch up on)
or
- would require a second circuit to run a 12v EQ/crossover thus adding more weight in batteriesi liked the planet audio because it would be more durable mounted on the underside of the trailer if heavier, it already has RCA jacks, it has 4 bridgeable channels and most importantly, built in continuously variable HP/LP filters negating the need for crossovers and even better, a bass boost circuit for when i get started using just my proels which are bass starved, but otherwise efficient and uncolored.
that amp solved a lot of problems while offering flexibility for expansion. i didn't like that EQs tend to have fixed band crossovers either.
as to 4 x 10s, the entire reason i bought the specific trailer i'm using was that it's wide enough that i could fit 2x2x12s in it where just about every other trailer is no more that 24" between wheels and i need 28" for 12s. doubling drivers twice would have given me 6dB in free efficiency using $70 93dB goldwood 12s which, on paper, would have given me the loudest 20Hz and a "perfect Q of.7. frequency response curves for car woofers don't seem to exist.
ORIGINALLY, the 15" route was supposed to be temporary until i could afford $280 in woofers and another $100 in boxes... which are actually a couple dollars cheaper than online up the street without shipping charges. i want to give the little shop some business.
i also checked pawn shops, and they overpriced the crap out of JUNK! an $80 15" had freakin' silicone on the lousy foam surround (i despise foam surrounds), a $50 kicker 10" had been remounted at an angle in it's truck wedge box and had lousy air leak/cone flop distortion and another $50 "bandpass" box had 2 port tubes with one loose inside and both of them so long, the covered pretty much the entire depth of the box turning it into a useless 2x sealed door jam.
another shop had a "tested" 10" sub with broken terminals that didn't work when i tried to demo it and a sealed wedge had no terminals at all! REALLY! anything "decent" was $150+ and not worth it as far as i'm concerned... buying someone else's beat up, chipped corner unwanted junk.
that's why i originally wanted the $22 MCM... just to be able to move some air on the cheap until i could upgrade to 12s. i also plan on upgrading to li-poly batterie$ but don't have $300-$400 stuffed in my mattress.
NOW, i think i'm jusy going to stick with the JBL because it's single box/woofer will be a lot lighter than 4 subs, but more importantly, i stumbled on the tech that will be this system's signature. it might not be the loudest system on the planet... but it shouldn't be shabby either, but i WILL be the coolest street party bike because it will be a rolling light show.
i will be building an outer shell made out of white, possibly grey, nylon to project a sound activated light show on using 5 x $10 LED sunflowers like this:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ao_Cj7wivdQ
i need space inside to build 45 degree angled light shields to prevent light spillage as the system will be a featureless slab until the lights are activated on the top and every side from inside turning it into a "cube of light" with maybe just a little bit of shadowing at the edges where the fabric wraps around the frame.
i stumbled on sunflower lights last week, and thought they might be more useful than the slow color changing LEDs i intended to use as ground effects because they're sound activated and then had the brainstorm to use them as projectors on the bus to work. no-one has seen a system that looks anything like that outside a disco.
i like the fast punch of smaller woofers, but moving air is really important if you're trying to inspire dancing, and the JBL with maybe 300w real world with the rear channel bridged mono should be more than enough to get people's attention at events or in front of clubs where it won't get drowned out like my former saddlebag system.
i might save some bucks on a combo system, and can even save $15 on the JBL and a box at sonicelectronix, but i want to get my box locally literally right up the street. other than that, i have almost everything i need except amp wiring, a circuit breaker, power meter, 3 MORE 12v18aH batteries and the hardest problem to solve, a charger that won't undercharge, drain & break, or boil my AGMs or break itself. i found no solutions elsewhere in finding an affordable charger that isn't a 10% roll of the dice.
if i just had the wiring and a flatbed for my trailer, i could roll tomorrow with just my proels.
Edits: 11/04/16
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