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In Reply to: RE: Subwoofer Partially Blown? posted by Braxus on May 09, 2016 at 22:14:37
Being an 8" driver it probably runs out of excursion at around 90-93dBspl at 20Hz.This is not very loud for 20Hz bass. According to Fletcher Munson it sounds roughly as loud as a 1kHz tone at 60dBspl.
I would swap it for at least a 12" or better a 15".
Edits: 05/11/16Follow Ups:
From the answers given which I agree with, it seems you might want to take the sub in under warranty to make sure there isn't anything wrong with it.
If not, then regardless of your not wanting big boomy bass, the sub you have isn't up to your needs.
I don't want loud bass. I only wanted it to fill in the low end on my stereo music. I also wanted tight bass which an 8" driver does. The bigger woofers get more sloppy in that department.
It is not true that small woofers are tighter than large ones. It depends on how the driver/enclosure is tuned. I use 18 inch woofers in large 5 cubic foot boxes and the bass is extremely tight. The problem is loose tuning with over hang used to sound bassy all the time in many commercial designs. Too many won't buy big woofers unless they hear bass all the time, even when it's not in the music.
Allen:
Can you (lawfully) provide any design/construction details of your custom subs?
Thanks,
Jeremy
Sorry I can't because I didn't build them. A good friend did and I don't have the info on the drivers. But there are tables to calculate closed boxes simply with Thiel/Small stats.
As an example one I'm curious about is the Scanspeak 25W4557/T00 which in about 3 cubic feet has a tight Qtc of about 0.60 and a box resonance of about 25.5 Hz meaning in an anechoic chamber(if you could find one big enough) would be around 5 dB down at resonance. But it would probably be flat down to at least there in a real room with floor lift even if it was feet away from walls.
Thx.
Now that I have retired, I have time for carpentry &c. My subs will be placed against walls but I have no available corners. I intend to use Velodyne SMSes for equalization, and am looking for capable passive designs.
Jeremy
Basically, I agree with what 3db is saying.Smaller subwoofers might be slightly better if you are using very tiny main speakers - those that might require a crossover point above 80 hz (in the stereophonic upper-bass region). But in this case I'd want to use two subwoofers, one placed very close to the right main and the other placed very close to the left main.
Speakers tiny enough to require a subwoofer crossover point between 100 - 200 hz should only be used in a very small rooms or workspaces. Also, most 8" subwoofers will not produce satisfactory bass in a room that is not very small.
Edits: 05/11/16 05/12/16
and isn't true of competently designed subwoofers from companies such as Rythmik, SVS, PSA, etc. I would seriously look at the Rythmik L12, a sub with a 12" driver utilizing servo feedback. I'm using its ported brethren, the LV-12R and this sub could easily be a great sub for music as well.
I have a 3 way system with custom 18" woofers(actually the drivers used in the last Snell A) in 5 + cubic foot boxes designed to be used ported or closed. The ported design is very, very tight. The closed version is a bit less full and tighter yet as would be expected in good design. With your eyes closed you wouldn't know the woofers are 18" except at very, very loud levels.
But seriously Audio Pro made a sub with small drivers that performed well, went low. It was sealed with 2X -6.5 drivers. Sure no good for a big room or somebody that wants crazy HT bass but.....
ET
The only time there could be a hint of truth in that myth is if one would compare one large woofer with multiple smaller ones which combined have a similar surface area.
What does produce sloppy bass IME is high excursion which is inevitable with a single 8" sub doing 20Hz even at low levels. For an 8" to do 20Hz at 90dB (which appears to us as loud as 1kHz at 60dB) it has to move 20mm peak to peak. That is a lot!
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