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Please see attached photos. We have a home-made passive subwoofer in for repair and sale. The unit uses two high-end out-of-production identical woofers made by "North Loudspeaker Company." As you can see, the woofer is toast; looks like an animal or a drunk got into the woofer.
I spoke with the man who ran the (former) company. There are no spares, as his house burned down a few years ago.
So we need a reasonable replacement. The specs, as I've measured them, are:
Impedance: 4 Ohms
Outer Diameter: 11 3/8"
Center-to-center screw holes across diameter: 10 3/8"
If anyone can recommend a good replacement please let me know.
Follow Ups:
This might work, but it is the newer version of the Peerless woofer.https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/approx-10-subwoofers/peerless-830452-10-xls-subwoofer/?gclid=CIDewcra1cwCFdKIfgodWmoNDQ
I believe George used an older version of the Peerless 10 inch XLS. He may have attached the bucking magnet to the back of the speaker and done some other in house modifications.
http://www.northcreekmusic.com/Retired/Poseidon_Subwoofer/poseidon_subwoofer.html
I lifted this from the retired link.
Both the front-firing and down-firing version of the Poseidon share the same driver, the Peerlexx XLS-10, a design with enormous strength for a very low Qts, a self-cooling voice and extremely high excursion capability. The combination of the and our acoustic suspension cabinet yield a Qtc of about 0.30 in the neighborhood of 30 Hz.
Poseidon Woofer Theile-Small parameters:
Re = 3.40 W
Fs = 18.9 Hz ± 1.5 Hz
Qts = 0.17
Qes = 0.18
Qms = 2.63
Vas = 3.17 cubic feet (89.73 liters)
Sensitivity = 88.4db (2.83V, 1 meter)
H = 33mm (voice coil height)
G = 8mm (gap height)
Xmax = 25mm p-p
Edits: 05/12/16 05/12/16 05/12/16
If the sub is a closed box (not ported or using a passive radiator) replacing the woofer shouldn't be too much of a problem. Measure the interior volume of the cabinet and contact Madisound. They should be able to recommend a suitable replacement. I noticed the North Creek woofer has a shielding magnet. That would be the only problem if shielding is necessary.
There is no beer in food, but there is food in beer.
"I noticed the North Creek woofer has a shielding magnet. That would be the only problem if shielding is necessary."
Often, the second magnet is used just to get a little more flux into the gap to meet the TS spec, and will do very little to provide much in the way of magnetic shielding. Getting good shielding would require a metal shielding cup over the entire magnet system.
"Getting good shielding would require a metal shielding cup over the entire magnet system."
Not always.
There is no beer in food, but there is food in beer.
You could probably find a woofer that would work well in the enclosure with a little bit of research. This is something Madisound, Parts Express, or one of the other DIY speaker outlets could probably help with.
Is one of the woofers intact? It's not difficult to measure a working driver nowadays.
I'm no engineer, but if both woofers share the same enclosure, replacing only one with a different driver might upset the behaviour of the unit?
You need more data, the Thiel/Small data(Vas, Qts, Fs) and efficiency so you don't chnage the sound of the speaker. And you probably need to change both woofers so both speakers are a stereo maych. The person you spoke to should have the information. And he probably had the drivers made for him by an OEM manufacturer. Get that and contact the OEM maker. They should have information in their records and if was a special driver, perhaps they can recommend a close replacement.
Otherwise Madisound is often a good place to go for replacement drivers.
I don't have the Thiele/Small parameter information.
The stereo pair problem is not an issue, as this is a single subwoofer. Is it also not a production unit, so I'm much less concerned about changing the sound than by making it a good-sounding, functional subwoofer again.
Closest I found
8 ohm though
DanL
Here's the second photo.
I would see if it can be re-coned. There are a few places online that offer speaker re-coning for not too much money.
Lee, It looks to me like the cone is intact. A outer layer of material is peeling away from the backing. And, the dustcap is gone. I would first look for a company that deals in speaker repair to get them to assess the possibility of rebuilding it. You can also go the route Dick Hertz describes.
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