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I have a pair of bookshelf speakers, I blew out one of the soft dome tweeters, the speakers are 6 ohms , 90dB 6" woofer 1 " soft dome tweeter. the tweeter is no longer made and I was going to replace it with one that will fit, it had a truncated faceplate and it seems very few are made with that style these days. I don't have the room for a round faceplate. The problem is the tweeter comes in 8 ohms or 4 ohms. which one do I want to go with and why ? What will I end up with for an ohm rating on the speaker ? The speakers are GNP model 10's if that helps.
Follow Ups:
A driver is classified as a 4,8 ohm driver but does not measure 4 or 8 ohms with an ohmmeter. DCR= direct current resistance which is the reading you get with an ohm meter on R x 1.
So take out the good driver and measure it. Take out the bad one too and check it as it is possible the tweeter is OK but there is another issue.
As Dick said if you change the drivers a crossover mod will make it sound best. It will still function with the original crossover.
Good luck.
ET
Could you please post a pic of the tweeter or front of the
speaker?. I could have one sitting on the shelf, you never know.
Also some tweeters are 6 ohms...Vifa made many. There are also
small faceplate models avail. if you need to get different ones.
Once you pull away the thick felt there is a metal frame, no decorative face plate. Everything on the back of the speaker reads like so.
Edits: 11/01/15
Norway usually means SEAS brand and H341 is the model#.
I didn't see that exact model# on the seas site...does it look like
this one? (see link).I think you'll have to just replace both with a similar type. I do
have similar 6 ohm units that will work fine, some with the cutout
for woofer clearance too. I think you have enough room there for
a faceplate.
Edits: 11/02/15
GNP was about 5 miles from house, in late 90's went in back room (long after they stopped making speakers and were just a Audio Shop) and saw parts. Not that tweeter you listed, but more of the H297 type.
Seas replacement domes for that (and most era's) actually have the faceplate as part of the coil replacement assembly and none available are truncated.
Vifa truncated (6 ohmers)D25 and D26 are in the "Eah, just okay" realm.
As you say, probably better off with the Dayton Audio truncated Silkie and deal/live with the 8 ohm vs 6 ohm difference.
. . . from any given era used the same 19, 25 or 27mm voice coils, so the impedance and response curves, and overall sensitivity, are quite similar if not identical. What differs are dome material (fabric or aluminum), chambered or not, ferrofluid or not, and faceplate geometry. So the OP shouldn't have that much trouble finding a near-drop-in replacement that will sound "almost" the same without crossover modifications.
Thank you for that information Brian , that helps me quite a bit, I don't have to get them back to original but they are not junk and I don't want to just trash them, if I can get them close to what they were I will be happy.
They have carried SEAS for decades, maintain a huge data base on discontinued as well as current drivers, and could suggest a VERY close match for you.
...I was going to mention that. We replace many
tweeters in the shop, seldom messed with the x-over, people
are happy with the results.
Any time you replace OEM drivers with another brand, a crossover modification will surely be necessary for best performance. At the very least, the replacement drivers should match the originals in sensitivity, and impedance characteristics. The new driver resonant frequency should be equal to or lower than the OEM. You might also check Craig's List or eBay and see if someone is parting out speakers like yours.
I can't go to work today. The voices told me to stay home and clean the guns.
Edits: 11/01/15
It does not matter what the shape of the face plate is as long as the tweeter fits in the hole and there is enough room between the tweeter hole and the woofer. Look at soft dome tweeters on Madisound or Parts Express and you will find something that fits and has comparable specifications. You need to know the crossover frequency of your GNP model 10 and make sure the new tweeter goes low enough to match it. I would go with the higher impedance to make sure you don't end up with impedance that over challenges your amp. There are usually used tweeters on ebay. I have bought and sold tweeters on ebay. There my be some Polk or Boston speakers that are comparable to you GNP.
Most likely old tweeters 8 ohm or so since you mention 6 ohm for loudspeaker. What ohm will you end up with ? most likely close enough to function. But if this was mine I would give it away and buy something like this or better if you can afford. You're going to spend a bit for the tweeter and it will not match so best to replace both. Then network should be adjusted for new tweeters so more time money chance to mess up or find more to repair replace.
I'm sorry I should have mentioned I will be replacing both.And I am looking to keep these, the pioneer speakers are not the thing I am looking for, the sensitivity is to low for my needs.
Edits: 11/01/15
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