 
|
Audio Asylum Thread Printer Get a view of an entire thread on one page |
For Sale Ads |
|
|
Audio Asylum Thread Printer Get a view of an entire thread on one page |
For Sale Ads |
66.69.220.82
Right now, I am so amazed at what a REL T-9 sub can do. It has added weightiness to what was otherwise a polite yet balanced sounding 3-way speaker (VA Beethovens).
Is is possible for a sub's amp to to sway the sound so much that it is really like an ss amp with a tubed preamp?
If this is your experience, then, it seems that with the "right sub" and an integrated tube amp of your choice, this combo could be the answer to the best of both worlds of tubes and solid state...The few hybrid amps that I heard seem to be more tipped to a solid state amp with a touch of tube bloom. But, what I am hearing now is not just the bloom of the preamp section but the tube roundness (spaciousness, dimension, and soundstage) from the output tubes and finally, the low end extension with weight. (This sub has 300 watts of power).
Follow Ups:
Your tube amp should still sound like a glorious tube amp, except for one extra special capability - authority in those bottom couple of octaves.
Subs on tube amps is *EXCELLENT*.
I've added subs onto systems with 300B as well as 6L6 tubes and the results are usually excellent. The trick is not to cross too high. Subs are for sub frequencies - not for bass frequencies to add more bass (i.e., compensate for inadequate baffle step compensation in the original design, for example.)
But if you change any other flavors of the sound, you're most likely doing it wrong.
You *can* have your cake and eat it - sweet tube midbass, mids and highs and authoritative low end.
Cheers,
Presto
It's true. The sub was the largest improvement to the sound.:)
Second note,
yes, REL is a natural match for VA speakers.
Using a REL sub, my system sounds tubey yet more dynamic. The highs and mids sound are cleaner with the bass sounding deeper than ever out from both main speakers. This is by the REL sub connected into the speaker outputs of the amp which is the most recommended way in the REL instruction manual. (Their furnished cable goes from the amp outputs to the sub itself.)
Interesting query- I keep posting about the REL greatness. Good to hear from a like minded fan as well. As outstanding as the REL presents, I do not know if any subwoofer can make that change?
seems like you'd have to have a high pass filter inline to the tube amp(s) to roll off the low bass, in order to get the 'effect' you're describing. Unless the integrated has pre in/out (and a separate sub or pre out) this would be hard to implement.Not sure about using a Y splitter in the pre out (one output to sub, other back into power amp in thru high pass filter) ...
I would also think that you don't want the rolloff to be much above 80Hz (but I think 60Hz or 50Hz may be even better). I guess some tube amps might have 'problems' below this, so the arrangement could be beneficial.
YOu don't say what particular pre/amp/filter arrangements you are using, but if it sounds good to you, I don't see a 'problem' with whatever you are doing!
Edit: I see you're using a Jolida tube integrated (?), has a pre out but not a separate power in ...
I don't know, but maybe the sound of the sub is 'dominant' to your ears, and yes, is more likely 'tighter' and goes lower than the integrated/speaker combo.
As before, if it sounds great to you, that's all that counts!
I have much the same arrangement - 8Wpc 300B tube amps, and a powered sub. At the moment I do have separate main/sub filtered signals (out of the KRK ERGO 'preamp'). In the past I experimented with 50Hz filters in the amp chain but took them out, preferring the sound with the amps/speakers (Titus monitors, do pretty good to about 50Hz) 'full range'.
Did I say "if it sounds great to you, that's all that counts!" ???!!! :D
Edits: 10/24/14 10/24/14
I am a fan of bi-amping, and have found that a good SS amp for the bass, together with tubes for the mids and highs is the best of both worlds. I like to cross over between 300 and 500 Hz, depending on the capabilities of the mid I am using. For a sub, you probably want to cross over at 100 or less, unless you are using two subs, then you can get away with crossing higher.
Not sure what is meant by polite, but I've heard it mentioned before concerning the Beethoven's. If I have my speakers correct and correct me if I'm wrong, at 91dB and impedance at 4 ohms average, that means that the ohms drop below 4 sometimes. This is code for power hungry. My Tannoy's are 93dB with nom impedance at 6 ohms, dropping to 3 ohms. My VTL ST85 (tubes) could not drive them well at all. Just not enough gumption! I ended up with Class CAM-200. With the proper power, the D700 really came alive, including full bass. I would get a loaner amp of 150 wpc or so and see what these speakers are capable of.
Edits: 10/24/14 10/24/14 10/24/14
What tubes did you use in your VTL ST. 85 amp? Thanks for any info.
I was a perfect match for my original Snell E's. That combo could play most anything well.
Post a Followup:
| FAQ |
Post a Message! |
Forgot Password? |
|
||||||||||||||
|
||||||||||||||
This post is made possible by the generous support of people like you and our sponsors:
Top of Page ]
[ Contact Us ]
[ Support/Wish List ]
[ Copyright © 2024, Audio Asylum, all rights reserved ]
