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I've got a pair of NHT Classic Threes that I'm going to be pairing up with a newly acquired Velodyne Optimum-8.This is a music-only system. Absolutely no movies, etc.
First, connections: I've got Audioquest Type-4 cables to the NHTs and I have a spare set on hand that I can use for the Velodyne. Is there any reason I shouldn't just do this in lieu of purchasing 10' interconnects to go from the pre-out on my amp to the sub? Just don't want to spend the money if there's no sonic benefit from it.
Second, crossover setting: I'm planning on running the Classic Threes at their full range - I'm very very happy with how they sound and just want to augment the lower registers with the sub. I, also, don't have a processor loop on my amp short of the tape monitor loop. At any rate - I want to run the NHTs fully.
That being said, where should I start experimenting with the crossover setting on the sub? The -3db point of the NHTs is 45hz. Both the NHTs and the Velodyne are sealed enclosures so, if I understand correctly, they should both roll off at -12db/octave, which should make integration easier, right?
Any input on either of these issues is greatly appreciated - thanks!
Edits: 01/03/09 01/03/09Follow Ups:
How to Dial In a Subwoofer (from my EARs page)
Here is how I dial in a sub. I do this procedure fairly often and it works very well. You can dial in a pair of subs in less than 10 minutes. It helps to have another person making the adjustments while you listen. We'll use the sub's level control and the sub's low pass filter (frequency) control.
1. Play something with good bass content. I use Michael Jackson's "Thriller" CD, and play Thriller.
2. If you have two subs: use the preamp balance control (or disconnect the other channel's CD input to the preamp) so only one channel is playing.
3. Turn the sub's freq control all the way down.
4. Starting with the sub's volume control all the way down, slowly turn the volume control up until you just hear the sub.
5. Slowly turn up the freq control until the bass becomes boomy. The boomy character means the sub frequencies are overlapping the bass from the main speakers. We don't want this. Turn the freq control down until the boominess is gone.
6. Repeat #4, noting the setting before adjusting.
7. Repeat #5, noting the setting before adjusting.
You already have some great replies but I will still chime in. Ultimately you should set things where they sound best to you. Many people are surprised that speaker level sounds better than RCA. I say try both. I also say try running the NHT's high passed through the subs x-over regardless of what you think of their sound now. You won't know till you try.
As to the X-over setting I'd start at half the three dB down point so around 20 or so. Don't forget to add/subtract gain at each crossover setting. Higher x-over settings will make the subwoofer produce more information and sound louder at the same gain setting.
Finally try a myriad of music as you listen to various settings. There is a big diff! Acoustic, Electric, electronic, live studio and so on. Of course if you don't listen to say classical I wouldn't bother testing with it. Test with what you will use.
ET
Question "Authority", the mainstream media sucks - I need music to help forget the reality of today
With a Rat Shack SPL meter and some LF test tones, you should be able to dial in an acceptably flat sub-to-mains transition. Set the meter up as close as possible to the position of your head at your primary listening position, run your tone sweep and graph it. Keep fiddling with the LP filter and volume of the sub, and repeat procedure until satisfied with results. The parametric EQ in the sub should help tremendously with leveling out room modes.
REL strongly recommend the speaker line connection because they say it retains some of the characteristics of your amp in the sound and improves the blend between sub and mains so if you've got some speaker cable and you don't have an interconnect, it's a good connection to start with.
When I tried introducing my REL into my audio system (ported sub and ported speakers) I started at the -3 dB point for the sub's crossover (actually it isn't a crossover in this case, it's a low pass filter for the sub) and discovered that frequency was too high. The REL manual also states that the 2 main problems people have is setting the LPF frequency too high and the sub's gain too low.
Certainly start at the speaker's -3 dB point but remember that's probably an anechoic measurement, not an in room measurement, and what's actually happening in your room will be quite different. I suspect you'd be better off starting at around 30 Hz or so and you may even need to set it lower than that. I ended up with the REL's LPF set to 22 Hz, as low as it would go, and the specified -3 dB point for my speakers was 37 Hz. Your mileage will obviously vary with different speakers, different sub, and different room to me but I'm prepared to bet that your -3 dB point of 45 Hz will definitely be too high.
David Aiken
My gut tells me to start at the -3db point so I'm thinking that's what I'll do at this point given your input only pushes me more in that direction.
The Velodyne has some room correction stuff built in, borrowed from their room correction system. I'm hoping it will work out well.
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