I WOULD LIKE TO UPGRADE CAPS IN MY 45/2A3 AMP. TWO CAPACITORS THAT I'M INTERESTED IN ARE TRT DYNAMI CAP & MUNDORF SILVER/GOLD .I DO KNOW THAT MUNDORF'S ARE MORE EXPENSIVE($60/CAP).BOTH CAPS HAVE GOOD REAVIEWS HERE AT A. ASYLUM SO IF SOMEONE COULD PLEASE GIVE ME THEIR OPINION ABOUT THESE
CAPACITORS I WOULD REALLY APPRECIATE IT.
V-CAP IS OUT OF MY BUDGET... SO PLEASE DON'T RECCOMMEND THEM!!
Before choosing a coupling cap, why don't u tell me what kind of music u most listen to?
I never have chance to listen to Mundorf S/G and Dynamic cap, but I have Audionote Copper Foil, Jensen Paper Tube, Vitamin Q 196P and Russian Cap K75-10. All of them are paper in oil but they sound quite difference.
Hmmm... all the cap I talk about are sweet and warm compaired to other film cap but
Audio Note Copper -> the way sweet in its sound and its dynamic, very very musical, best for vocal and chamber music.
Jensen Paper Tube -> Less sweet than Audio Note, a lot more detail, realistic dymanic and more realistic, good for all around music but for me it is best for classical or complex music.
Vitamin Q 196p -> 555 this is the must have one, very sweet and warm, just like u listen to the music in the candle light, very very musical and romantic.
Russian K75-10 -> A lot like Vitamin Q with little more dynamic and focus.
PS. Audionote and Jensen has a reputation about it poor durable , rating 600VDC but many recomend only 400VDC
But Vitamin Q and Russian are build like a tank, and very durable. Price pretty cheap on ebay.
It has been my consistent experience that capacitors improve with use. Most take around 50-100 hours of music beofre you know what they sound like, and most sound pretty bad at first. Many get even worse over the first 10 hours or so, before they start to get better. Some settly down quickly, in 10-20 hours; others are said to take 500 or even 1000 hours but I have not tried that experiment enough times to say whether I hear it.
And before anyone asks, no I am not a cable nut or voodoo audiophile, I'm an engineer. Since I have no technical explanation for these effects, I do not want them to be true - but an engineer (as opposed to a scientist) will generally go with what works over what should work in theory!
Incidentally, I hear this effect whether I listen to the music during breakin, or just run the system into a resistor and listen only at the beginning and after the breakin is complete. I've done this experiment enough times to be confident that it is not due to my ears getting used to the new sound.
Of course, as with anything subjective, self-deception is by definition impossible to see. It's always possible that my confidence is misplaced....
I've heard the same effect a number of times. Since I repair/mod other peoples equipment, I have replaced coupling caps in dozens of amps and preamps. I get the chance to hear a variety of caps also. Some caps are pretty good right away, others make high end equipment sound like AM radio. It also depends on the equipment and circuit whether one cap will work, or needs longer break in.
Mundorf's for example take a minimum of 50 hrs to sound good and at least 100 hrs to really come to life. Could be one reason some people dislike them. PIO caps on the other hand, can actually get worse after break in and sound dull and lifeless. The strangest one's are Teflon caps. Such as the V-Cap. They sound bad every time you turn on the equipment for at least 30 minutes and then start to sound good. This behaviour seems to go on for about 200 hrs then settles down. Overall I'm not a fan.
The most consistent caps I've used, based on feedback from my customers have been the M-Cap Supreme by Mundorf, the Auricap and the Hovland Musicap.
I recently tried some of those Russian PIO caps in a push-pull tube amp. Lifeless is the most polite thing I have to say. However they have been in only about 8 hours. I'll let my customer decide if he likes them. Afterall he's the only one that counts.
Have you tried some teflon caps other than VCaps such as Relcap TFT, Auracap teflon, Russian FT2, FT3, K72 ?
I've installed VCap telons in a couple of amps as well as Relcap TFT, but I can't say for sure about them sounding "bad" for first half hour. Then again, I break them in for a long time on a burn-in device before installing..
The SCR tin foil (same as Mundorf ZN?) seem to have a lot of buzz; have you tried these?
aragon16863, hi. My experience with the Mundorf silver/gold for RC coupling (like in your amp) was not good. In a speaker dividing network I think the Mundorf are good. As couplers I couldn't stand the sound for more then ten minutes. Perhaps I should have left them in to cook some more but frankly I couldn't take it. If you can - I would suggest trying the RU K40-Y. These caps are just outright amazing. They beat just about everything I've tried hands down. They are transparent and non smeary - almost like having no cap at all. Also consider Rel-Cap TFT Teflon film & tin foil or even Rel-Cap polypropylene & copper foil. The Rel Multi-Cap is no slouch but the Teflon is better. You might consider a copper foil & oil type like Jensen. I think there are several makers of this type. The TRT Dynamicap (following Wonder Caps) is like many other dry film metalized polypropylene types. I would go K-40Y or something with dry film and foil rather than metalized. Get the highest voltage rating you can afford. Higher voltage versions have more area of material at the same uF but sound better. Anyway, some food for thought. Happy Listening.
Normal upper- and lower-case text is easier to read, and the use of all-upper-case text looks as if you're shouting.
Tin-eared audiofool and 1000-yard benchrest shootist.
I, for one, do care.
What is your problem?
He said it politely.
Oh well......what's your advice for the poor fella?
------a fellow shootist.
...and Cardas Golden Ratios in the 2nd.
I don't try to color my system with the use of capacitors, I use speakers to do that. I want electronics to be clean and edge-free among other things but NOT tonally colored.
Tin-eared audiofool and 1000-yard benchrest shootist.
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