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In Reply to: Re: Hum/Buzz posted by Az Barber on February 1, 2005 at 04:48:26:
Ok, here's an update: The outlets that were not grounded simply never had the ground wires hooked to them. The wires were run to the outlet boxes, simply twisted together and passed on. Easy enough to fix. The outlet that the equipment is plugged into was grounded fine and was on a different circuit. The ungrounded outlets are now grounded.The electrician unhooked the ground wire from the GFCI outlet and the buzz was about half what it was. He said that this was safe with a GFCI outlet as the GFCI would still trip and prevent any accidents. He could not come up with a reason for the rest of the buzz though... he was here for 2 1/2 hours. His solution was to add a completely seperate leg from the main panel and run it to a new subpanel specifically for the equipment as the noise seems to be coming down the neutral.
This would be very expensive as it would require upgrading the main breaker panel and installing a new sub panel. The wire runs and new ground would actually be easy.
So the result is about half the buzz, but no real reason or 100% solution.
Thanks again for any ideas!
Follow Ups:
Bob Lee mentions a pin 1 problem, if you aren't familiar with what he is talking about, look here.http://www.rane.com/note110.html
Also, the electrician looked at the ground distribution system in house, what about the earth ground?
And then again, we are back at the SCR noise that the dimmers are throwing on the ground.
If none of those fixes get 'er done, maybe it's time for a couple portable generators. Unless you're talking about a permanent install.
Tom
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Thanks for helping out guys! I really appreciate it!The pin 1 problem ain't it. First off, I'm using Jensen Isolators which have a switch to eliminate the Pin 1 problem, and I've tried consumer amps with unbalanced inputs... they all exhibit the same buzz.
I did not know to check the earth ground. How is that checked? I know there's at least one metal rod jammed into the ground that has the tele, cable tv, and electrical service grounds attached to it. Is there a way to check it for resistance or potential?
The dimmers were removed. The buzz is still there. If I get rid of the buzz, I'll retry the dimmers and see what happens. But right now, they are physically disconnected and the buzz still exists.
Here's a link to a real good discussion of your issue.Pro Sound Web is a pretty good resource for any of this type of info.
I'm afraid my basic skills have taken you about as far as I dare go.
I don't like to play with AC too much, folks can get killed for bad advice.Good luck
Tom
- http://srforums.prosoundweb.com/index.php/m/31420/2407/?SQ=5bb4d0e1f9346d189fc7acd8eac85a47#msg_31420 (Open in New Window)
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I got a neat idea on what in going on .
As my answer is somehow long, and involves drawings, I posted it at: