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I remember Dynobot taking heat for posting pictures of his broken iFi iUSBPower supply almost a year ago. There was a heavy metal bar inside the case that came lose when the glue let go. Nice. I've never been a fan of glue or silicone bathtub sealer as a construction method for securing parts in audio gear.I just received the iFi iPower wall wart (9v model) with - "Active Noise Cancellation+® drawn from military radar technology". Love the over the top marketing hype! ;-)
Unfortunately it appears that a piece of this "Active Noise Cancellation" technology is rattling around inside my iFi iPower! It sounds like a screw or other tiny component broke lose. I can't open it up to take a look because the wall wart is sealed around its plastic seams.
Oh well, it was only $50 (for a wall wart!!?) so I'm asking the retailer to exchange it. I'm not sure if that's the route to take or iffy I'll have to contact the manufacturer.
[UPDATE]: Retailer was very responsive and agreed to ship me a replacement.
Vroom! Vroom!
Edits: 07/08/16 07/08/16 07/08/16 07/08/16Follow Ups:
with sound quality when I replaced the Squeezebox Touch wall wart with a well regulated linear. While you most likely don't need to use the $1300 Sonore power supply, I wouldn't make a final judgement on potential performance using that *stellar* model. :)
Today I got ship notice for my HD-Plex linear. It offers exact voltage matching to the optimum 7V setting for the uRendu.
My mRendu arrived! I'm in the same boat as you now waiting for a power supply. I could use my lab supply or two LiFePO4 batteries if I can scrounge up the correct size DC plug.
Iirc there are reports the mR sounds great on batteries, also needs something like 60 to 100 hours break in time...
Then taking the case apart is destructive. When I tested those types of power supplies for a living that was the most common case securement method.
...it was too tight. It wouldn't budge by hand and I didn't want to risk cracking it with tools. As you mentioned it would probably have been destructive.
We used to put them in a vice at opposite corners and drive a large flat blade into the seam with a mallet and twist. They usually popped open, but we needed to instrument the internal components and usually destroyed them in overload tests anyway.Hope they send you a new one without issues.
Edits: 07/08/16
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