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My local supplier Has Manville 1" thick 20" O.D. pipe insulation.The DIY instructions that I read calls for Knauf pipe insulation.The supplier told me the Manville product is very similar to the Knauf.I read on another thread that filling the tubes with fiberglass attic insulation would improve low end absorption vs.leaving the tubes air filled only with sealed ends.I plan to build four 6' traps for the corners of the room.I hope that will tame some bass boominess that hangs behind the music during passages with low end.Has anybody built tube traps that can advise me?Thanks,
Dave
Follow Ups:
A good test I was actually part of is to get some large buddies over for a 'listen' and a beer.
Stand 'em in the CORNERS where the proposed traps will go.
You should hear enough difference to decide IF the 'really big project' is a go for takeoff.
With a couple bulky dudes in a pair of corners, you CAN hear the bass difference. Kooky.
Too much is never enough
I will have 4 36" sections done this weekend.They are 20" outside dia.I will try them first in the corners of the rear wall since when I walk around the room with music playing,the bass sounds heavy there.
I have 4 sections capped on each end with 1/4" strand board discs ready to remove the foil outer covering and staple on 1/2 the dia. 4 ml.plastic.Has anybody left the foil layer on 1/2 of the tube and put the plastic over that to increase the diffusion,or would foil have bad properties for diffusion?
I finished 4 36",20" dia. traps & have a pr.in each of the rear wall corners set with the uncovered fiberglass side out.I can tell you that they made a much bigger than expected difference!The bass bloat and hang is greatly reduced & the bass is tighter & more defined while the mids and highs are more clear with a larger ,wider sound stage.I should have another pr.for the front wall corners done by next weekend.Making the traps was the way to go vs improving any of my electronics which without the room treatments would not have been very significant.
The foil is in the way of the absorption because it is not porous, so you would get more of the absorption with it off. So take the rest of the foil off if you want more absorption - which I would guess you do.
I did remove the foil,but as I was doing it I was wondering if leaving it on 1/2 of the tube instead taking it off & going back and covering 1/2 with 4ml plastic would act as a good diffuser when positioned with that foil side out.
Do you need diffusion where you are placing the traps for bass absorption?
There are round shaped diffusion panels so I suppose this could be used that way, but I doubt the useful locations for bass traps would coincide with useful locations for this kind of diffusor.
The ASC tube traps can act as diffusers for the highs and mids if the reflective side is pointed into the room.I was thinking that the tube traps in the front corners of the room might work well to have the reflective pointed out into the room so as not to deaden things too much.I will see how it goes when I finish them.
Can I find my room bass nodes by ear?Putting two 20" tube traps in the corners of the rear wall made a big difference in improving low & mid bass definition as well as mid & high imaging.I put a two more tube traps in the right corner on the front wall which is about 10' from the back of the rt.speaker and I'm not sure that it improveed the bass,but with the absorbtive side out it dulled the mids & highs.
You can walk the room and listen for spots where bass is particularly strong and also bend at those locations to see if the bass prominence is still there.. The big bass spots are good places to try placing bass traps. If you got all the practical positions taken care of then you will probably not benefit from further trapping.
I was surprised how much having the absorptive side facing out affected the imaging considering it is one 6'trap in the rt.corner on the front wall over 10" from the speakers.When I rotated the trap so the reflective side was out,the imaging improved.If I find that the front wall trap doesn't smooth out the bass any more,I will place it in the center of the rear wall flanked by 6'tube traps in the rear corners.
Did you have both traps turned around or just one? If just one then the asymmetry might have been more significant than the fact that it was absorption vs. diffusion. If both then the diffusion is obviously what you need, which is what is generally observed for maggies and their front walls.
I had both traps facing the same way.The biggest improvement was gained by the traps on the rear wall in absorption mode.
I built 67 of these for my sound room. Forget the brand, but it was simiar to Knauf. Believe the place was Pacific Insulation here in Portland. ASC is 2 hours away, in Eugene. The ware-houseman said they had "a guy" from Eugene that bought the same stuff. I didn't fill them with anything, but I did put a circle of fiberboard 1/3rd of the way inside the tube, with a 1/4" airhole in the middle. I cantered it slightly to break up resonances. The hole is for pressure equalization. Used drummel-cut 1/2 inch pressboard for the ends, liquid nails as adhesive. My recommendations:
* experiment with the thickness of plastic for diffusion on 1/2
* A 4 ft height is much more useful=1 unit would be over ear height
* They hold up for years, but the chicken wire ASC uses adds stability
* Find a shop that will cut the circles for you ! (Pain to do by hand)
They make a huge difference in bass and imaging. Map out your room nodes and consider the lowest frequency that your speakers put out and ear can hear. I initially built 2 helmoltz resonators to address my 22hz fundamental. My Maggie6L's don't go much below 60hz and my ears lose 40 and below. Oops.
"I see sound waves"
Is this "blueprint" based on taking an ASC tube apart?
Hey there. One thing I can't quite visualize here is how to get the material attached? Staple to the top of the wood discs? But seems like that would give a real unfinished appearance. Also is there a preferred material for this that would allow the sound to pass thru ?
Thanks tim
Check out my picture, above. I glued the end circles to the fiberglass tube. I then stapled the 1/2 plastic diffusion material, then the speaker cloth covering. The white pvc (patio-door slats) on the top, sticking above the top of the tube about 1 inch. I also put PVC strips on the bottom, flush with the floor. These covered up all the staples to give a finished look. Of course, the tubes with the bottom pvc could only be used as bottoms: they wouldn't fit inside the pvc on the "tops".
"I see sound waves"
The DIY instructions on the web advises covering 1/2 of the fiberglass tube with 2ml plastic using staples into the fiberglass.I used spray adhesive on 4 of the 3' traps that I built.On the last two traps,I removed 1/2 of the coated foil rather than removing all of it & going back with 2ml plastic.I found that the coated foil works well as a difusser.My next step will be to cover the traps with muslin or other inexpensive fabric.
I saw the 'remove half of the foil' - and either place it in front for diffusion - or back for absorption..... Trying to figure if the 2mil plastic would have any detrimental effects?
Btw - thanks .... I didn't think of spray adhesive... I have also seen this seam glue .... which could work as well....
It seems like creating the round cutouts would be the most difficult task here....
They say to remove all of the foil and replace 1/2 of it with the plastic.I did not experiment with the units that I removed all of the foil and did the 1/2 plastic,but the unit that I left 1/2 of the foil certainly acted as a diffuser when the foil side faced out into the room.
I experimented with a variety of clear plastic thicknesses for the diffusion. Opted for a thinner one than the 2 mil, but I don't recall what I settled on. Have to disagree with leaving the foil on the fiberglass tubes: it's way too thick. The original tube traps use a clear plastic with a number of different holes in it: presumably to absorb / diffuse different frequencies. On my DIY, I used the clear plastic as a solid peace on 1/2 side of the tube.Stapled it to the presseboard-circle ends. It's okay if it flops around the length of the tube. You still want the bass pressure waves to get to the fiberglass. I bought speaker fabric from Joannes fabrics:4 ft wide. Rolled the tube slowly as I stapled the fabric to the pressboard circles on each end. Once the fabric totally encircled the tube, I folded the final 2-3 inches extra fabric under itself, then used fabric-glue along the length to seal it. I ensured that the glued seam was on the NON-diffuse wide of the tube. Also place a brass upholstery tack in the fiberboard circle, on the side of the diffusor (opposite the seam-side). This was done, AFTER affixing the white PVC end to the top only: used with upholstery tacks for that. Remember to leave about 1 inch of the PVC strips extended on the top of the tube, to hold a 2nd tube stacked on top.
"I see sound waves"
Good work making the tube traps.Cutting the circles is a PITA huh?How do you know that the ASC traps have perforations in the diffusing plastic layer?I have two 3' 20" traps stacked in the rt corner of my front wall that I left 1/2 of the foil on.I have 3/4 of the foil layer facing into the room.I know that the foil is thick,but the room sounds nice,vocals are right in the center,bass well defined & less bloat.I have two more stacked in the corners of the rear wall absorptive side out.I'm only using one stack on the front wall rt.corner since the wall rounds on the left & there is a utility room door.I'm thinking that the room sucks up some bass.
I have Qty 6 of the 16 inch ASC tube traps. I discovered the chicken wire (hardware cloth) and the plastic diffusor when I took one apart. The holes are not perforations. They are actually 'random' holes from 1 inch to about 4 inches in diameter. I suspect that they create a more random diffusion because the hole diameters would expose different wavelengths to the absorptive fiberglass underneath. On my DIY units a used a solid piece of plastic to cover 1/2 of the unit. Works well.
"I see sound waves"
Wow,67 is a lot of tube traps! did you join 36" segments into a longer tube,or did you put end caps on each 36" segments and stack them?I'm thinking that making 36" segments would make moving them easier.
I made them just as the fiberglass 'pipe insulation' came: in 36 inch sections. I then purchased some replacement PVC louvers from Lowes, made for vertical patio- door mini-blinds. These flexible plastic pieces were about 3 inches wide by 6-7ft tall. I affixed (staples) the white PVC encircling the top of each tube. I left half of the top portion (1.5 inches) raised above the top of the tube. When I stack two tubes, the upper tube fits into the PVC circle. Works well and is easy to move. Even two units together can be "hug-lifted" to place in another area.
Here's a picture. The gray tubes are real ASC tube traps. The others are mine. You can see how the whit PVC holds the top tube in place. I placed a brass thumbtack to show which side has the plastic diffusor on it. BTW : the diffusors work great ! But the ASC models are much better, but I couldn't afford more than 6 of them. Good luck !
"I see sound waves"
If this makes any sense. Here is a picture of a "map" I created of the tube traps. Arrows= the direction of the diffusors. It's modeled after the plans published by Peter Moncrieff http://www.acousticsciences.com/media/reviews/iar-optimizing-asc-tube-traps
"I see sound waves"
I have had ASC tube traps for 20 years and I couldn't be happier
with the results. Peter Moncrief convinced me about tube traps
and in my opinion was the best reviewer of audio around.
My room has 36 tube traps and other diffusors, as well.
Peter also convinced me of the Rotary Subwoofer!
Nice job and great room mapping !
"I see sound waves"
Super nice listening room!I'm trying to be satisfied with my six 3' 20" traps for now.I have all three 6' stacked traps on the rear wall with two in the corners & one in the center.
awesome thread. I love seeing all the effort of people building those rooms. Reminds me that I need to make more traps. I used the chicken wire and roxul method and just made 2. I couldn't imagine making 60+ of these! The cylindrical insulation would speed things up considerably though.
Making the tubes from flat panels must add a lot of work to the process.
Yup!
Can't figure out how to get more than 1 pic with my phone...
Nt
Nice set up Watts.Did you place traps in the corners of the back wall as well?Is the diffuser on the front wall DIY?
I have a couple of flat panels on the back walls; and a carpet. I should have more tube traps; like I said I need to make some more. The round insulation is what I will try next time. I want to make some triangular corner traps also. This room is 10.5 x 19.5 x 7, and with 3.6's and Mcintosh amps there is no lack of bass!
DIY RPG diffuser, actually 2 of them on top of each other, not sure what colour to paint it, so it remains primer red until I do. It is not random, each piece of wood is placed in a specific orientation according to a mathematical formula as researched by the BBC papers. This is not the source I remember seeing, but it looks the same:
http://audioundone.com/do-it-yourself-acoustical-treatments
Here is a closer picture of it
I might as well include a shot of the back of the speaker while I have the camera going.
I used Manville pipe insulation 20' which worked well.Nice job on the diffusors.In Jim Smith's 'Get Better Sound' book,he advises not placing the electronics between the speakers,but rather someplace on one of the side walls about 1/2 the distance between the speakers & the listening position.That isn't always possible,but you may want to consider it.
I have read something like that, but I think you don't want a huge piece of furniture taking up the space between the speakers, rather than the electronics themselves. Besides, at every hi-fi show this is exactly what they do; and they are attempting their best to impress others with the kit:
nt
I found that you can use a rack or anything else as a block to early reflections from the center front wall and center placed rack You place your rack or pile of junk ahead of the speakers.
I have a pile of CDs on top of a cart with equipment materials and audio rags and the vandy 2C - reaches higher than the listening seat and blocks some mid/tweeter output and early reflections. Improves imaging and detail vs. moving the cart and box speakers out of the way.
I am considering moving the racks to the middle ahead of the speakers.
I'm not sure what difference not having the rack between the speakers really makes,but I can tell you that adding bass traps took my system to a new level.The bass is more distinct with much less boom & hang.I think that the mid range is more articulate as well.
Agree on the bass traps and diffusion. Unfortunately for me the corners are occupied by other items that can't be moved (small closet and the dedicated AC).
As to the normal rack placement behind the speakers - it creates early backwave reflections from the face plates of the equipment that are really difficult to get rid of. People do this in order to cut down on the length of speaker or line level interconnect. I usually suggest people use a fake ficus or equivalent to diffuse the backwave before it hits the racks. For some people it is possible to get the dipole null aimed at the racks. Others have used their TV slightly ahead of the speakers to block the center reflections. The adjustment should result in pulling the center image forwards to where it aligns with the rest of the soundstage.
nt
Wow.Your listening room is a study in acoustical engineering. Just having 6 DIY 20" tube traps has made a big difference in the low base articulation in my room.I'm thinking that your listening room must sound very nice.Thanks for the information on the construction of ASC traps and the link to their set up articles.I may decide to build more traps after reading some of the articles.
Nice work on the tube traps.The PVC blind strips make for a nice finished look.Each 36" unit that you made has a wooden end cap on each end even when stacked with the PVC strips?How thick was the plastic sheeting that you covered 1/2 of the tubes with for diffusion?
The ends are made from 1/2" pressboard= low resonance, many speakers are made of this (don't get it wet!). The white PVC is attached with white upholstery tacks to the outside of this circle of pressboard, so the bottom of another trap (with no PVC on the bottom) fits neatly into it. NOTE: I cut these circles by hand with a drummel tool and compass. This was a pain. I would pay someone with a band saw to cut these. I don't recall the thickness of the diffuse plastic, but I did experiment with about 3 sizes. It was medium-sized, if that helps. Not a tarp.
"I see sound waves"
I have a small forest of Knauf sourced traps sealed at each end with wooden pie plates. My sister-in-law fashioned spandex sleeves for them. I use a mix of 12" and 18" and stack them. I placed the 18 inchers behind the speakers and the 12 inchers mid way into the room.
Empirically, they were able to vastly improve the bass linearity in the bottom couple of octaves. Highly recommended.
How thick is your insulation? I've read that people are buying 1" thick but have not heard if thicker is better or actually worse.
Thanks
Is it best to put end caps on 3' sections and stack them, vs gluing two 3' sections and capping the ends of a 6' tube trap?
Can't say why that would be preferable. They would certainly be even more ungainly to move around.
ASC, the creator of commercial tube traps currently makes theirs in 48" lengths. The original, however, was 36".
Tube Traps
I used the Knauf pipe insulation. It is 12" ID and 1" thick, 36" long. Capped them with 13" diameter plywood. Did not stuff them, instructions said empty air space was better. I covered mine with cotton batting (to contain fiberglas fibers) and gray muslin. Muslin is like thin soft denim.
The instructions I used claimed the Knauf pipe insulation had similar density to the ASC Tube Traps. Using the Knauf pipe insulation makes it easy, but costs a little more (US$7.47 per foot back in 2007).
The room smoothed out better then I had hoped for. My son and I took SPL readings without traps and with traps. Ten freqs (25-200hz), 7 places in room, with traps and without traps(140 readings). The SPL readings confirmed our ears. I couldn't be more pleased with this DIY tweak.
Thanks for the information.Did you use construction adhesive to join the 36" segments, and cap the larger tubes,or did you put plywood caps on each segment and stack them?
Liquid Nails construction adhesive for seams and caps.
Each 36" segment capped on both ends.
Where did you source wooden pie plates?I will call my dealer and ask more questions about the Manville compressed fiberglass pipe insulation vs the Knauf product.
Wooden pie plates was E-Stat's suggestion. I used plywood.The Knauf pipe insulation has the same or similar density as the commercially sold ASC Tube Traps. Hmmm, where does ASC source it's tubes?
If I understand correctly:
Tube bass traps are a simple resistive/capacitance circuit.
The diameter of the tube correlates to the frequency most efficiently captured.
The walls of the tube provide the resistance.
The interior space of the tube is the capacitor.
Sound is propagating waves of high and low pressure.
As these waves of high and low pressure air pass through the tube bass trap, they create a pressure differential between the inside and outside of the tube.
This pressure differntial tries to equalize by leaking through the sides of the tube. Correct density insulation will let the bass pass through but create a resistance to this equalizing flow.
As the air is forced repeatedly in and out of the tube interior some of the energy is absorbed by the tube walls. This energy being absorbed is sound, in this case bass.
Edits: 10/22/16 10/22/16
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