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I am happily listening to my Quads thanks to some service from Kent of EStat Solutions.
I sometimes get the bug to buy upgrade parts, though it usually takes a couple months before I actually do anything with them.
Anyway, there is discussion about improvements by replacing an existing electrolytic with a film cap. To cut to the chase, I've been offered Mundorf MCap Evo in place of MCap MKP for the same price. The MCap MKP are or have been discontinued.
So essentially I am asking about the EVO vs the MKP?
Cheers!
Jonesy
"I know just enough to get into trouble. But not enough to get out of it."
Follow Ups:
I have used a nice plastic Hammond box with good quality 6" of wire and banana plug on one end and a binding post on the opposite end . Inside the box is your film and foil cap .
I bypass the electrolytic in the ESL 63 with the cap box. Totally reversible if so desired. And yes, I can tell the difference for the better.
Good luck.
Thanks for the options. I haven't heard back regarding the cancellation/not ship the larger sized caps. If they show up and return/refund policy is a hassle, I might just look at rigging something up.
Cheers!
Jonesy
"I know just enough to get into trouble. But not enough to get out of it."
I put the resistor and cap external at the terminals.
AOme say the caps does not affect the sound much anyway, but I replaced mine with a 150 uF NP and a 47 uF MKP. Highs less grainy.
What resistors did you replace in the EHT?
Many years ago I had replaced my failing EHT boards with ones that Kent was making and selling at the time. The design was based on the then current 988's. A few weeks later, Kent sent me some 100K +/- 1% resistors to swap out of that design in order to reduce the bias voltage a tad. Well, I totally forgot about them until recently dealing with Kent on having a bass panel sent in for repair. He reminded me about the resistors, and boy, what a difference it made when I made the switch. I'd gone all these years... well, you get the picture. Anyways, the resistor is located at the far edge of the EHT board. Unfortunately I can't find a picture on the net. And I don't recall what resistor it replaced. I believe it was just an initial batch he did back then, and then reached out with a resistor value he felt would work better, and currently uses on his boards.
Cheers!
Jonesy
"I know just enough to get into trouble. But not enough to get out of it."
I have a 988 so maybe not needed.
There's a resistor in a bridge that has changed with later models to increase the bias voltage. Maybe it is that resistor you changed. In that case I thought 82k was enough
The resistor I changed out was 56.20k +/- 1%
Cheers!
Jonesy
"I know just enough to get into trouble. But not enough to get out of it."
OK, thanks, I'll look at the schematic and/or contact kentaja
Kent had told me the 988 design voltage was biased a little higher so the 988's could play louder. I don't know which model year that would have been. When the 988 EHT design was used for ESL 63 replacement boards, that resistor impacted the sound quality as well as being tough on the panels. Not sure if the same would hold true for your 988's.
I'll see if I can find the old resistors and take a pic of my EHT boards.
Otherwise, Kent may be the best person to answer this.
Cheers!
Ed
"I know just enough to get into trouble. But not enough to get out of it."
nt
"I know just enough to get into trouble. But not enough to get out of it."
Not much space to install better caps inside the plinth so cap size is critical.
Another challenge is the amount of capacitance, 220uF. There is no way to neatly install 220uF of film caps inside the plinth. I have seen some pretty sorry attempts from people trying to do this.
I split the difference and install 100uF of film and 120uF of NP electrolytic. This sounds as good to my ears as 220uF of film and can be installed neatly inside the speakers.
I won't install caps external to the speakers.
Hi Kent!
Replacing the bass panel you restored along with swapping out the resistors you gave me for the EHT board, really improved my system.
I'm pumped!
So have started looking at component changes, like saving for a new (previously enjoyed) DAC.
But then I realized i could get still more out of my Quads with a few tweaks... and less costly.
Louie mentioned a bypass cap in combo with his film cap.
Would I still look at adding a bypass cap with the film and electrolytic combo?
Cheers!
Jonesy
"I know just enough to get into trouble. But not enough to get out of it."
Some folks put the bigger caps outside the enclosure. If you are anxious to do this, Solen makes caps that work well and fit inside the enclosure and they fit on Electrostatic Solutions revised input board.
The Solens can be bypassed with a smaller value "better" cap and gain some of the benefits of the "better" cap.
FWIW: I have Electrostatic Solutions improved input board with Solens and bypasses.
I can tell you the improvement is audible if the speakers are working correctly. More transparent, creamy smooth, but very detailed.
I had my boards installed during a rebuild, so the work was a snap for me cause Kent did it!!!
Thanks Louie!
Kent is awesome. He usually comes to the rescue after my DIY attempts.
I've heard about the "outboard" configuration, but really prefer to keep things inside and tidy.
I could use multiple caps to arrive at the value I need, but it starts to get costyly. I realize it's expensive to begin with, but I only have a certain WAF budget to spend on my system.
Using a less exotic cap with a high quality bypass is something I just ran came across browsing the net.
Your suggestion is worth looking into further. Timing couldn't be better. Much appreciated.
Cheers!
Jonesy
"I know just enough to get into trouble. But not enough to get out of it."
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