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In Reply to: RE: Low crossover and thinner mylar and foil posted by Satie on April 14, 2016 at 14:50:08
Great info Satie;
But way over my head,I am using a Marchand XM44 my question to you would be should I back off on the high setting on it?
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Get Phil at Marchand to build you new boards with the same slope but the crossover frequency (actually both HP and LP freq would be doubled) one octave higher, or keep the same crossover frequency but go for a steeper crossover - say a symmetrical LR4. Then you plug in the new boards and can play more loudly - and can swap back the original boards for low volume playback if you end up lacking detail with the new boards.
I would personally go for the LR4 choice since it is not that bad in a 2 way biamp setup and would allow you to keep an octave's worth of the midrange driver's higher resolution.
Thanks Satie;
I am pretty ignorant when it comes to the technical side of this hobby, Phil did send me some other boards.
This is what I have installed now 300HzHP6, and 135HzLP18
This is what he sent also 200HzHP24, and 200LP24
Using your suggestion translated with these numbers what do I ask Phil for?
Many thanks for all of your help....
Since you already have them, the 200 hz LP24 boards should help you by taking out low freq drive requirements from your mids. Plug those in and you should have less congestion in the midrange when playing hard and be less likely to burn them again.
If I were making fresh boards I would have taken 250 hz on a "just to be safe" driven choice.
Read how to replace the boards, it is easy but you need to do it correctly and plug the new LP board where the old one was and the HP board where the old HP board was.
For future improvement you will want to swap the caps on the boards with better foil caps as the LR24 have many of them so the difference in SQ is significant. .
Sure wish there was a way Phil could design the mother board to accept those mods so one could simply select them via selector switch on front rather than manually inserting them.
My complaint is the same - after desoldering and resoldering the boards so many times I was beginning to lose the loops on the circuit board. I was looking at vacuum and air variable capacitors to make changing freq and slope easy rather than deal with the potentiometers' familiar problems in transparency and tracking, but it seemed to have equivalent problems as the potentiometers and those are cheaper and far smaller in size. I used wire wound pots for the PLLXO for a while.
the cards on these boards are fairly small. See pix on link below of an example. you mention foils to mod the cards, what specific foils have you tried that will fit the cards and could you elaborate on the actual audible improvements. I have added a link to this topic from the past.
thanks image link http://www.canuckaudiomart.com/details/649258631-marchand-xm44-crossover/images/1175005/
Edits: 04/16/16 04/16/16
were first of all in smoothness at the top end while retaining the sparkle on high hats triangle and the metallic sheen of brass, just that these were now more realistic and less electronic sounding. The second was that it sounded fuller in the mids when the bandpass boards were done. The slight bit of upper mid/low treble shrillness was gone as was the slight thinness in tone. Imaging improved, particularly in the depth dimension and it tightened the bass a bit further.
I used mostly 0.01 uF Dayton foils but also RTE polystyrenes and platinum caps from sonicap.
I used both sides of the boards to get the real estate required. Smaller values would be easier to fit on one side. But the smallest Dayton foil is 0.01uF and that is the best value in foil caps.Absolute results are just a notch or two below the best foils from Jantzen and Duelund.
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