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If I am planning on putting my components (preamp, amp, turntable, etc) in an audio rack in the middle and hooking up my 1.7's on each side, what length of speaker wire do I need to purchase to account for speaker placement (from back of wall and distance between each speaker)?? 10-12' or so? or is that too long? Looks like most of the system pics have like 8' runs of speaker wire, so I may have answered my question.I know the general rule is to setup the speakers about 3' away from the back wall and to maintain a speaker separation of 50-60% of the distance from your listening area to the speakers. I haven't really decided where I'm putting them in my house, but there are a few areas. One is a 22'x 21' room, another is 14'x 11', and yet another is inbetween these two at 13.5'x 17'... I know placement of my speakers will determine that, but what is a safe length to allow me some flexibility to experiment with placement?
Edits: 11/03/15Follow Ups:
Ok, thanks neolith and satie... appreciate the responses. Think I'll go that route on my speaker wire and upgrade later down the road if I feel like I need to.
Neo why the twist in the wires???
make your own cables by twisting (about 3-4 turns per foot) a pair of wires.
May He Who Watches Over Us All, Watch Over You And Yours.
I use 12 gauge "magnet-style" speaker wires (anti cables). I did not twist them, but I kept the two runs (to each speaker) separated by at least 6 inches, and elevated off the floor. ( They replaced much more expensive MIT and Nordost cables, BTW)
The interconnects and crossover wires utilize all twisted wires. The system sounds fantastic.
"I see sound waves"
Twisting the wire affords protection against any satanic influence, demon, curse or hex, such that you will never require the presence of an exorcist.
Well, jokes aside.....
Neo mentioned using single conductor magnet wire. Twisting them is really the only option to get a consistent spacing and have something that looks decent aesthetically.
However, there are valid reasons to twist even normal parallel cables that are already bonded together. The theory and implementation goes back a few years. It was invented by a guy named Bell. :)
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Twisted_pair
Dave.
Is it possible to hear any difference in the music when cables are deliberately exposed to electromagnetic radiation/dielectric effect? In the example of the 'Bell' phenomenon, are you comparing effects brought about within hundreds, if not thousands of feet of external cables to the 2 or twenty feet of loudspeaker cable within someone's home?
When you say "difference in music" the conclusion is subjective, and I can't answer that one.However, the twisted pair scheme is sound and will certainly work in reduction of EMI pickup.
Construct an unshielded parallel interconnect a meter or two long and attach between preamp and power amp, and listen (no music playing) for 60Hz hum pickup. Then twist that interconnect and repeat. You will notice an audible reduction in 60Hz hum pickup.
Admittedly a worst-case scenario/experiment, but it's a practical proof of the theory.Dave.
Edits: 11/07/15
I believe that whenever I had used some crappy (long) interconnects, I've performed your "worst-case scenario/experiment", and my Tympanis never hummed. I almost always listen to them right after firing up the system and before any music begins. (I'd particularly be interested in verifying that my tonearm is still grounded.)
That's good. It means you don't have many 60Hz fields roaming around near your gear. Also, your preamp probably has a low source resistance which helps as well.
As Josh mentioned, power amplifier to speaker connections are obviously much less prone to pick up of EMI/RFI than line-level connections. Although there can be issues at high level as well. This is what spawned the whole "choke tweak" evolution a few years back. :)
Checking your tonearm should be easy. Unless it's non-metallic or anodized or some other complication that prevents a continuity check.
Dave.
Audible interference from EMI/RFI pickup in speaker cables is very rare, but it can happen, forex near a transmitter. Other problems are possible if RFI gets back into the power amp's feedback loop, I read a paper on that in the AES Journal more years ago than I care to remember. I think this is it but I don't want to spend 5 bucks to find out!
http://www.aes.org/e-lib/browse.cfm?elib=10294
I would second Satie's advice. Buy a 1/2# spool of 16 AWG magnet wire from Remington Industries and make your own cables by twisting (about 3-4 turns per foot) a pair of wires. Figure the twist will eat up about 20% of the length (ie 10' will end up at 8'). The 1/2# spool will give you plenty. I made two cables, 8' and 15', and still have at least half the roll left over. So don't chintz on the length, you may find that the speakers sound better at 4' or 5' rather than 3' and you can always cut them down to size later. A 1/2# spool will cost about $10 plus $5 shipping.
I know the theory that the cables should be the same length but I don't buy that and certainly can't hear a difference. Speltz Anti-cables use 12 AWG magnet wire but I prefer the thinner wire.
This is a good way to start and I bet once you hear them, you will have no desire to spend anything more on wire. FWIW I use the cables bare (no connector is a good connector) and every few months, if I remember, spray the ends with Caig Dexoit.
Oh yeah, putting a rack in between your speakers isn't exactly the best thing. Think about putting the rack on the side.
I would say you start with a cheaper wire like a magnet wire and only buy a "real" speaker cable once you set your positions for speakers room rack etc.
The length you would want is 1/2 of the diagonal of the largest room - about 12'.Add 2-3' for rack height and bends if the amps are going to be on the rack. That should allow you to place the speakers pretty much anywhere in your largest room without dragging your amps around...
Once you have your speakers dialed in and you are ok with your choice of preamp/amp then you go for the speaker wire upgrade as you have a target to match it to and an easy reference against which you can find comparisons of commercial or DIY speaker cable designs.
.
Those rooms vary greatly in size. But if the general layout will be the same in either I'd think you should be pretty safe with 10' (12' wouldn't hurt). Figure 1' for amp, 4' out, 4' forward and 1' up.
Better to have a bit extra and cut it, than regret not buying enough. Unless the wire is crazy expensive...
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