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In Reply to: RE: Noise/crackling in my 3.6R bass panel posted by Satie on August 23, 2015 at 14:15:01
Also, as stated above, I'm not using the stock crossovers. I use an active crossover system. The stock crossovers are sitting in a closet.
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Swap the crossovers to the old ones to see if the problem continues.
Thanks, but I'm not using the stock crossovers. I'm using an active crossover setup. I've already isolated every part of the signal path, including the preamp unit that implements the crossovers (a DEQX unit).
THE CROSSOVERS ARE NOT THE PROBLEM; IT'S THE SPEAKERS.
Are there any electronic components left within the speaker?
Can you access them or do you need to take the sock off to get in? If it is indeed the speaker then that is going to be what needs to come next. Have you measured the impedance of the bass panels and tried to test the mid/treble for correct reading on the ohm meter (disconnect if the cap is still inside or the resistance of the mid or tweeter if you are triamping)
Once you are done cleaning the contacts if the problem persists then,if you left the fuse in line see if the crackle continues when you short it.
I have no idea what's inside, I've never taken off the sock or gone inside the speaker in any fashion.
I'll try the deoxit next and go from there.
Thanks for the help.
You should not have to take the socks off. Just open up the back panel -- all the connections to the woofer are at the panel.
I took off the panel, and aside from the wiring connections, I can't see much. There's a blue hockey-puck-like object just inside, but apart from that, I can't see much.
There are no obvious defects in the wiring or connections that I can see.
I should say the hockey-puck-like thing is pink, not blue.
This is critical -- your inductors could be female rather than male :). Inspection alone may not reveal a cold solder joint (typically dull and rough appearing) but if you wiggle the wires while listening (this is perfectly safe) you may hear noise and identify the problem.
Which wires might those be? 'Grantv' wisely suggested that 'mikeand1' swap solely the L/R speakers to determine if the noise followed the speaker.
mikeand1 indicated having done that and the noise followed the speaker.
The only 'wiggable' wires would then have to peculiar to, or internal, to the speaker, (or not)?
I was wondering the same thing -- wiggle what wires?
Perhaps it was implied that you should unscrew the nameplate containing the jacks (to which the X-O box is designed to attach) and wiggle those internal wires within easy reach and listen for crackling. Who knows? Perhaps Neolith has something there. It's certainly worth a try in the process of elimination. "Open up the back panel" = back Nameplate?
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