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In Reply to: RE: Best Passive/Active Combination of Crossovers for IIIa's and T 1-D's posted by computerman on July 25, 2015 at 09:45:04
I have not used this Belden twinax but it seems ok. I suggest you read up a bit on what it sounds like since its inductance is on the high side. You need to know that the cable works for your single ended line level purposes.
No problem with using the PE locking RCAs. I use them too.
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I did some more searching on this site of your previous posts concerning interconnet cable and found it on ebay.....20 AWG shielded twisted pair SPC... all parts and cable ordered thanks once again!
I thought you had Apex Jr lined up and its teflon mil spec SPC twinax was right in the field of vision on their site.in the 22 gauge at least.
I guess it is better you found the 20 gauge as it is more likely to be less bright.
Got the wire and the RCA plugs...looking forward to assembling some interconnects. You mentioned a spacer. I am not sure what you meant by that...do you have a link to one? In addition is there a way to terminate the cable end of the connector so that it looks neat and tapers to the wire...kind of like this.... but to the cable part of the RCA plug, so that it gives some strain relief and looks good.....https://www.parts-express.com/cable-pants-6mm-2-conductor-black-10-pcs--082-772
Thanks again!
First, don't get those.
The spacer is intended to address exactly this problem of a rather thin cable going into a connector designed for a coax. The solution is to use a spacer that will combine with the cable to create a shape like a coax so allow the set screw ( which does the strain relief ) on the connectors to get a good grip on the cable.
My favorite solution is 1/2 inch segments of the hard jacket peeled off of cheap RG something coaxial cable. Or alternately an appropriately sized cylinder shaped hard rubber (Poly propylene or polyethylene or like) to plug in the free space.
If you want to make it look nice then use heat shrink over the spacer and wire portion and back down to the cable before it enters the connector.. I don't do that since I like to keep the options on the designated use of the wire open.
I found a spacer material from some wall wart extender cables that almost appears to have been made for this wire. The inner diameter is perfect and so is the outer. I will post a step by step assembly procedure for these interconnects as I think it would be helpful, complete with pictures. I would like to add a "shiny/glossy" heat shrink tubing to the finished product for looks and to ID the cables better. A problem I am running into is finding a 3/8" or 9mm I.D glossy red and black heat shrink tubing that comes in a 3:1 ratio as that is what is needed to shrink to the approximately 1/8" O.D. of the 20 gauge wire. I have some non glossy that will work, but it is not near as pretty as the glossy. :) Any suggestions or links to a 3:1 glossy/shiny heat shrink tubing would be very helpful.
I never used a glossy heat shrink so can't help you sourcing it.
How about putting a layer of poly gloss lacquer on the plain heat shrink when you are done?
Satie..I have one question. As the signal path from the XLR and RCA outputs on TGP-5 is no different according to the manual, doesn't it make more sense to use the XLR outs for noise/hum cancellation. The manual states that they are both line level outputs and recommends of course, the use of XLR when possible. In this scenario, to refresh your memory, the TGP-5 outs are going directly to the amps. I am constructing the cables and I have purchased enough XLR connectors to get the job done using them. If I were to use RCA I would need to exchange the XLRs for RCA plugs. Of course I will do that if necessary.
Does the TGP 5 also have multichannel XLR inputs?
If it is indeed the same signal then you can use the XLR option.
Generally speaking I don't like using balanced connections with internally unbalanced gear because of the need for an extra active circuit or transformer to drive the balanced signal. If the amps are not internally balanced as well, then you have just added two stages to the signal path. So unless you have hum problems or have good reason to expect them or are running long cables then stick with single ended unless your devices are internally balanced.
The TGP-5 only has XLR outputs, no XLR inputs. Does that make a difference? The Crest amp uses only XLR connectors. The Rotel and PF-200 use RCA and the PF-200 actually uses phono as it is quite old and most likely a pro amp. I talked to the manufacturer and they said that it was originally quite an amp, priced in the $2500 range, and it is quite pleasant to listen to. Simon Ashton sent a diagram on how to connect an XLR to an RCA plug. Essentially # 1 and 3 to ground on the RCA plug. I will attach the photo, but you are probably familiar with it. From what I can glean from the manual the XLR and RCA outs are the same signal. The description is identical with the exception of recommending XLR for better hum cancellation. I will check the amp manuals to see which ones are or are not internally balanced.
For the bass amp I would not worry about excess active stages and just go with the XLR - I am assuming that would be the balanced only amp. Where the extra active stages make a difference is in the mid and tweeter amps and I understand those have RCA inputs. If so, then connect the mid and tweeter amps with RCAs not XLRs.
If your setup tends to hum much or have much RF, the balanced to RCA is probably not going to help you much with the grounds shorted together- if you need the hum issue addressed then get a balanced to unbalanced transformer to place physically near and before the amps (those are usually designed to work in either direction Bal to SE or SE to Bal). There is a variety of them available on pro audio web shops.
Guess I got confused..anyway the wire I purchased although more expensive is 20 ga. and if it is not as bright as 22 all the better. There is quite a price difference between 22 and 20 ga wire I noticed as well. Must be a lot more surface area.
Sorry I cannot find any 20 AWG SPC cable...must be missing something.
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