Welcome! Need support, you got it. Or share your ideas and experiences.
Return to Planar Speaker Asylum
174.68.76.189
In Reply to: RE: Help! Emotiva XPA-2 vs. Adcom 5500 with MMG's? posted by Mark Man on February 18, 2015 at 19:41:24
I have a PAIR of the Parasound A23, the '21s 'little' brother. One per speaker and biamped 'bout fills the bill. A later passive LL crossover will give me as much as 3db greater power than a single A21. AS it sits? Power same as a single A21.
GL uses emo MONOBLOCS on the Bass Panel of the MG20s. This is an absolutely stunning sounding setup. I don't know how much to ascribe to WHAT part of it, but IN SUM, you'd be hard pressed to better this in a real room, IMO.
Too much is never enough
Follow Ups:
Pix, it would not surprise me, at all. I have the HCA-1000A (A23's previous version, but no MOSFET) driving the tweeters. The mid/bass driver is moved by a HCA-1500A. In the PLLXO bi-amp, they now both work great together to do their neat dog & pony show; quite sweetly.
It was not always so. Since the 1000A came a bit "mal-adjusted" when I bought them both used, the little thing got all my TLC and tweaking devotion. The poor 1500A got no love...left totally stock because it was working well enough (as in "impressive").
Then one day I had no tweaks scheduled but lots of free hours. The "mad-tweaker" in me (lol!) got loose. I decided to have the 1000A show duties on the mid/bass driver. (The Denon AVR took over the tweeter because its impedance is the same, whereas the 1500A would have required changes to the PLLXO to do the tweeter right).
With its new caps and higher bias, the 1000A did a jaw-dropping act on the bass. The dynamics and slam were better still than the (un-modded)1500A did at times. The 1000A only lost its textural integrity and sweetness when driven into the power range that the 1500A commands...and that was still LOUD ENOUGH.
Which means that your A23s could easily be helping drive some stunning sound these days!
The ONLY change I even think about to the amps is to REPLACE the level control with a pair of fixed resistors totaling the 100kohms I'm told the pot is.
Since I run it 'full open' I only need a 100k resistor. But, I don't need all that gain and would not be sorry to have to turn it up a little more for the same level.
Maybe 80k:20K?
I have written to Richard and he tells me that there isn't room for my original idea which was a switchable resistor net.
He also said that (to paraphrase) the sonic consequences should be to the good.
Too much is never enough
Yes, if you need to reduce the input signal, try to use a pair of (quality) resistors as required, per pot position. It pays off if you need to attenuate.
Bear in mind, I did not replace the pots in the 1000A after all. In my case they are always wide open. In that position there is hardly a thing to gain by replacing; the pots are clear at "0". Soldering a simple temporary jumper told the story.]
I just realized that ANY proposed passive LL XO will have a built in drop of maybe 6db or so.
That's all it'll take.
Now, if I could figure out the calculation for my 33k INPUT impedance, I'd go up to RS and start by getting a couple circuit boards and out to fry's where they have the HAKKO 888 solder station for 70$. A real deal.
Too much is never enough
Pix, I am sooo glad your are closer to trying this! I'll see if I have some useful numbers for you. We are talking 1.6QR, right? You may also want to check Neolith's spreadsheet for crossover frequencies and ideas on variations to try later. I'll try to get you to the ballpark. The game should be great but your home runs may be far easier with some sort of acoustic measurements gear. Nothing fancy is needed.
Post a Followup:
FAQ |
Post a Message! |
Forgot Password? |
|
||||||||||||||
|
This post is made possible by the generous support of people like you and our sponsors: