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In Reply to: RE: Building a room for my Magnepans posted by Green Lantern on February 10, 2015 at 09:16:15
I've lived in SoCal just short of 40 years and have seen ONE basement in all that time. Very old house.
Too much is never enough
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I am slightly surprised to how much importance the dimensions of the room is given here. There are more aspects like the properties of the boundaries, the size of the, if it is sealed etc. I have not seen any serious acoustic designer paying a lot of attention to the golden ratio. Most important of all, the room should not be too small or too large. Where you want to place your speakers will also have to be taken into consideration while choosing the design of the walls. The more irregular is often better. I can see that there is a degree of connection to where we live. The USA seems to have different housing properties to the UK, Germany or Scandinavia. Not only the materials used in the houses but also the indoor decorating and the sizes of our rooms. Large open areas are very difficult acousticly but have been fashion for a while in Europe.
Roger- I agree with you there is more to a great listening room for Maggies then just the size of the room...That is why I have posted this thread. I am looking to get other ideas from veteran planar guys on here on how else I can tweak this room to get the absolute best results. After all I started with a blank slate in the basement and basically built the basement around this room... Wife wasn't exactly thrilled but hey it all worked out.
So anyway, I am definitely interested in hearing from you on some pointers for this room. I am still uncertain on if I should use roxull wool sound proofing on all 5 sides of this room or just regular insulation.... False wood floor on the concrete basement floor or just stay with the concrete floor and carpet... Should I put my TT on my maple TT shelf mounted to a load bearing wall or mount a concrete stand directly to my concrete floor etc.
Thanks
Jim
2 main types of design.
'Clean Sheet' where a designer WILL pay attention to room dimensions.
'Retrofit' where you pretty much are dealt a hand and must play it. At that point you are going to work with what you have.
Some rooms are simply too weird for audio purposes. Cubic or 'Regular' with even multiples will be a disaster. Even though you can use room equalization, you fix the good seat, NOT the room.
Starting with a fundamnentally good room helps a LOT.
Also, I've noticed most persons will deal with 'square feet'. saying something like 'my listening room is about 300 square feet' or some such. What is a much better measure of room size is CUBIC capacity. That 300 square foot room could easily be from 2400 CUBIC feet with an 8 foot ceiling to 3300 cubic feet with an 11 foot ceiling. And the properties vary as a result.
My room in my house which I'm FORCED to use has 8 asymmetric walls. The ceiling is 11 1/2' at the peak and 8 1/2' at the long edge while the opposite site varies as low as 8'. The main door to the house is off this room as is the hall to the 'back' of the house AND the kitchen entry AND the entry to my den. My Den was a hoot. When I did my original subwoofer setup my den acted as a helmholtz resonator and had a huge bass peak which rendered listening in that room nearly impossible. The side opposite my Maggies (short wall setup) has a dense woolen tapestry to dampen what WAS an extremely annoying ECHO. The room in that dimension is about 24'.
Total capacity of the room is around 5000 cubic feet. Large and quite irregular.
And yes, account must be taken of ALL THREE main acoustic properties. Reflection / Absorbtion and Diffusion.
Later I'll post a drawing of a staggered stud arrangement which might jog an idea out of you
Too much is never enough
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