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In Reply to: RE: My Serenity Super-7s at a Club meeting posted by jeffreybehr on October 27, 2014 at 12:15:45
Yes, all the wire and xover parts can be improved. I like the 12 gauge Jantzen wax paper and foil coils on the midrange and 16 gauge ones on the tweet....way better than the cheap Erse coils (I compared). Right now I like Rike caps bypassed by copper foil Jupiter .022s. All caps will sound best with outer foil oriented to output or ground. Wire....right now I am using Neotech 20 gauge litz on tweeter and Neotech 14 gauge litz (available from Zenwave Audio) on the Neo 10 (tied together tight). It sounds best to run the signal into the inside of the coils and come out the outside. The xover board should be isolated from the cabinet......using just bubble wrap as an isolator will work. Herbies things probably even better....and even better mount the xover on its own platform behind the speaker. You need to put some felt on the front around the waveguide on the Neo 3. The sharp edges are messing up the imaging. Then hardwire your speaker wire directly to the xover....all these things will add up to another whole level of delicious sound. Have fun!
Edits: 10/28/14 10/28/14Follow Ups:
For someone who is sensitive to which way caps are oriented…..Why are all the coils on the same plane and not at right angles to one another?
I'd get THAT right before starting in on foil inductors vs wire. Also, wire inductors have a theoretical 'best shape' which works out to the the SAME number of layers as turns per layer. You seldom get THAT with factory inductors.
Too much is never enough
I don't know why you are asking me the question about the coils position. I did not make or design that xover. Of course, you would want them at right angles unless they are far apart.
The purity of sound of a coil can only be determined by listening.....numbers of winding per inch or whatever is just a number (theory). I am interested in real information......that which brings the results I want (better sound). This can only be determined by serious listening tests.
One of the meaningful measurables of inductors is the DCR, right?
Using an online calculator and a spreadsheet, you can tailor an inductor to have the desired DCR and minimal form factor.
Commercial inductors, and ALL of 'em, as nearly as I can tell, use a series of 'stock' cores. If you want a non-standard value for some reason, they will happily DEWIND a higher value inductor for you, at a slight additional charge.
It's just my opinion, but epoxy potted wire is still somewhat better than a ribbon inductor. I also go to some trouble to optimize both dimensions and DCR for intended use.
My design of 3.5mh inductors for my Maggies? Same number of turns per layer as number of Layers. This makes a coil which is SQUARE in cross section, giving the maximum flux density on average of any other practical shape. Using standard PVC sizes for the core and running several simulations based on what online calculators tell you is the right amount of wire, will result in a fine coil.
The orignal Maggie coil is 16ga AND iron core of 0.40ohms DCR. Using MORE wire of lower resistivity, results in a 0.38 ohm coil and 14 ga.
Winding 'em is a REAL PIA, however!
Too much is never enough
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Tin-eared audiofool, large-scale-Classical music lover, and damned-amateur fotografer.
William Bruce Cameron: "...not everything that can be counted counts, and not everything that counts can be counted."
The S-cap, the one being imported and sold by Parts Connexion. I wrap copper foil around the cap to test it for outside foil. Foil connected to hot of scope and plus and minus AC voltage from signal generator connected to leads and then reversed to see which direction gives the most signal....I use 10V peak to peak volts at 1K frequency for test. For testing smaller caps I use a big paper clip to wrap the caps with.
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