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In Reply to: RE: mg20r buzzing, is it aluminum wire? how to pull socks? posted by Blaine H on September 05, 2014 at 16:06:47
I'll add my comment in case you're one of these people who don't want to listen to what's said ... but if 3 people say the same thing, it might sink in.If you think "taking the socks" off is all you need to do ... you obviously haven't closely examined your MG-20Rs? So, press your hand against the socks, front & back. On the other side of the mid-line of the overall panels from the ribbon, you will feel something hard - both front & back. This is the 'pole piece' - the holey metal sheet which supports the magnet arrays.
As you can feel this sheet front & back (under the sock), you should realise that the mylar is sandwiched in between - this means that it is a major difficulty to deal with de-lam.
You should also feel that the mid panel only has magnets one side (for the 20Rs only - the 20.1s & 20.7s have magnets both sides of the mid panel as well as the bass panel). So re-laying mid wires on a 20R is definitely feasible for a DIYer.
You decided to go for the improved bass delivery of the 20.Rs which comes from having magnets both sides of the mylar ... the penalty for this is that you have to send them back to Magnepan, for repair. And, as someone else posted - probably, they bin them and give you new panels!
I suggest you shouldn't complain about this - being in 'Noo Joyzie', you are privileged, compared to Maggie owners in other parts of the world.
Good luck,Andy
Edits: 09/06/14Follow Ups:
AndyR wrote:
"So re-laying mid wires on a 20R is definitely feasible for a DIYer."
I doubt, think there are some crossbars across (some parts of the sheet metal is left there) the midrange driver, not giving easy access to the foil conductor. I have a picture somewhere...
To open these push-pull driver(s) some re-engineering will be need. Some sort of jig that hold the two halves (front and rear perforated sheet metal with the magnets) in position while the rivets are drilled out and then let you pry the two halves apart. Without the rivets, the two halves will slide sideways and probably destroy the Mylar. I have no idea of how to hold the halves in place on a suitable jig. Magnepan use a jig with hinges in production. I think Magnepan just pry them apart and rebuild the driver with new Mylar/wiring. I would be surpriced if they just send you a new driver without the old driver in exchange. They will not do that for any other model as far as I know, except the ribbon tweeters. It would make rebuilding old Magnepan speakers a lot easier if we could just change the driver without sending the whole speaker! The drivers can be placed in a rigid box giving tesl protection, not the cardboard boxes Magnepan uses...
I did exactly that when I shipped my IIIa mid-bass panels to Magnepan about 10 years ago for delam repairs. Made a box from 1/4" luan plywood and 1x2's. Note the notches in the frames for the crossbars. I put the frame in a MMG box as it was only 1-1/2" thick. Saved a bundle in shipping costs.
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