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Moving on from my initial post to see what these MGIIa's are in need of.
I got them working but one did not sound nearly like it should. I have now disassembled it to see what I am dealing with. There are some obvious issues to my eye but I am sure there are many other more experienced eyes that could tell me what they think here. Tweeter wire needs replacement and there looks to be some very small holes in the mylar?
What is next? See photos. (Can't I post more than one photo at a time?)
Follow Ups:
Some of the holes You see on the picture of the treble wires are due to burning off the wires that corroded.
The other holes I am not too sure of as I would need to see closer.
In any case, You can not just glue new wires on that mylar as the glue will creep down the holes and attach the mylar to the magnets.
Be careful there!
The one who succeeded was the one who didn't know it was impossible.
Drugolf, you may want to send an email to Swamis Cat directly, to alert him of this thread. He has had some recent experience with his Maggies, as you saw in another thread. However, he may not know of this current discussion unless he checks in or someone tells him. I am sure that he'll try to help if he knows of this one.
Maggies puts the inductors (wire coils) in wrong due to space constraints.
Best to have them at RIGHT ANGLES to one another to minimize mutual inductance.
For my 0.02$, I'd gut the crossover making EXTENSIVE notes and take lots of photos of EACH panel and transfer the crossovers to an external enclosure.
Later, when you finish going completely Bonkers, you can Advance to the 3rd stage and to to some kind of Line Level crossover / either active OR passive, as you choose.
Too much is never enough
"Later, when you finish going completely Bonkers, you can Advance to the 3rd stage and to to some kind of Line Level crossover / either active OR passive, as you choose."
Pix, I kind'o like the way you phrased this one. LOL, ain't that the sweet truth!
BTW, have we heard of anyone switching this wire tweeter to a QR version on this model? For all the trouble Drugolf may have to go through with these panels, some kind of tweeter upgrade (from the current wires) could be a game-changer for him. Then the benefits of a line-level xo's would really shine through, I suspect. Hmmm, "bonkers"...yup, it happened to me also.
Changing to this other tweeter wire version has me intrigued since i am at this stage. Any other feedback? I am about to call Magnepan.
Also, if they offer any replacement items for the caps etc, should I go for it? or is it more typical to go elsewhere for that stuff?
I don't know if there is a magnet to panel spacing issue which would effect sensitivity AND power handling. Not to mention frequency balance between 'ways'.
I've always advocated that Magnepan use STRONGER magnets, too. Imagine the amplifier choices which would open up with even a mere 3 db increase in sensitivity……I could biamp my panels with a PAIR of Pass Labs XA30.5s That would be special.
Too much is never enough
Stronger magnets could have a role in your Maggies later, if you choose to experiment. I am trying to figure out more precisely how they do so well on my Maggies and if it would work in others. The first phase took over a year just to determine if it was safe. Now, at almost 18 months into it, I added even more magnets. Looking good...crossing fingers. Distortion trends seem to be improving again in this round, which is encouraging.
As Roger says, it will affect the bass. Some folks may not like it, others may not mind. Anyway, it is a long stretch from MMGs being improved to assuming it will do the same on larger Maggies. We'll see at the end of this year, if I still have MMGs and not a pile of magents sticking out of a black hole in space : - )) .
There is a different spacing magnets-to-Mylar for the tweeter section. Stronger magnets is difficult in some aspects. Bass need to have high Q resonance, stronger magnets will reduce the Q and gone is the bass. Drivers operating at higher frequencies can use stronger magnets without these issues.
Orienting the inductors orthogonally is a good idea. Fortunately the inductors on the IIa seem to be far enough apart that mutual interaction should be minimal. Personally, I would not deal with the crossover at this point but agree with Pictureguy in looking down the road at a line-level xo.
To post multiple pictures, put this line in your post for each picture:
"img src= http:\\pictures.mysite.com/picture1" and replace the quotes with " <" and "> ". "Picture.mysite.com" is your hosting site. Take a look here for more details on using html codes in your posts.
Edits: 08/22/14 08/23/14
I was GONNA' say 'orthogonally' but don't even know what it means, let alone how to SPELL it!
Orienting them like THIS:: O -- l will keep them from interacting. And yes, while they DO seem reasonably far apart, the DETAILS will be what eventually bites you in the rear.
Too much is never enough
Photo 2
Photo 3
Photo 4
Photo ?
another
The tweeter wire looks like it is corroded extensively. If it hasn't broken already (check it for continuity) it will soon enough, so you might as well order a replacement wire from magnepan.
drugolf ,
In the last picture , you see the white looking particles on the tweeter wire, that's corrison , more than likely BOTH speakers will be affected by it. . . sooner or later .
They can be re-wired . . . Magnepan sells kits for it .
I wish YOU the BEST of Luck with your journey with these MGIIs
Stephen
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