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In Reply to: RE: couple of questions posted by pictureguy on February 04, 2016 at 12:16:15
Tri-X non professional was the one. Oddly, Tri-X professional was a slightly different film and another kettle of fish. Go figure. It came in 220 rolls rather than 120, but had less contrast.
I don't have the time to try to find it, if it is even still out there, but there were lab tests done on many of the available films back then developed in several popular developers and Tri-X and HC 110 gave the sharpest results.
Of course the traditional wisdom was that finer grain films like Pan-X and Plus-X were sharper. They did have finer grain, but we're softer when enlarged. The solution to grain is a larger negative, not finer grain film. That's a bit inconvenient, but it is what it is.
Follow Ups:
It would seem that Digital is similar in that larger sensors have an advantage in output over small sensors.
I had the Canon EOS1d which was a 1.3cf while rebel was a 1.6 and the top line were 1.0 since they were roughly the same size as a 35mm neg.My current APS C sensor does just fine for what I am doing BUT, I'd love the adaptor for some GREAT glass. Prime best but zoom if I must. SONY lenses are only OK, except for the 35mm 1.8 whichis pretty good, but 3x or 4x MORE expensive than the Canon 50mm 1.8
The Macro in the 'E' mount is also very $$$, even more than the Canon glass and probably not as good. I'm going back to manual focus / exposure.I never used Tri-X professional, but always just color print film in my 120 / 35mm (It'll take either) Yaschica 635. A terrific 35$ Garage Sale Find.
ONE of the main reasons for the apparent sharpness of some B&W films is the LIMITED response to full-spectrum light. As it turns out, getting a lens to FOCUS at all 'frequencies' from Deep Red to the Bluest-Blue is a problem. Apochromatic glass is tuned to be in focus similatniously at 3 wavelength.
Orignal B&W film may have been mainly sensitive to Blue and less so at yellow and green wavelengths. Later RED sensitivity was added and I think this was the origin Of PANCHROMACTIC film. Like PlusX-Pan.You can view some of this effect by taking a digitial or ANY scanned color image and removing ANY 2 of the 3 primary colors. You'll end up with a monochrome image of greater apparent sharpness……depending on your taking lens and which colors you eliminate.
Here's an example…..with a few goodies tossed in.
Too much is never enough
Edits: 02/04/16
My knowledge of digital is dismal. I have a Canon EOS and a little Lumix rangefinder with a Leica general purpose zoom that I rather like. I don't feel like I have control over digital. It does what it does. I know that's my fault. I haven't spent the time figuring it out. The only good thing I see is that you can immediately see the shot and shoot it again.
Learn about the relationship between aperature / shutter speed and ISO (film speed).
I don't care about 'mode' or whatever. If I do NOT want depth of field I crank it to the smallest aperature or fastest shutter speed. That would be in Aperature preferred or Shutter preferred.
You'll learn to make whatever adjustments you desire 'on the fly'.
Too much is never enough
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