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In Reply to: RE: Electro-Voice Regal lll posted by CraigI on January 15, 2017 at 13:46:59
Craig,I was going to say that all you need to do is pull one wire off of the mid and tweeter to take a DC ohms reading so you can't get the two connections mixed up. But I see you already got the readings.
The cap readings are in UF or microfarads on your meter and not DC ohms?
I'm not sure if I would use "settled in" readings or not. For a film and foil cap I use the number that comes up in the first 10 seconds. For an electrolytic it's not really the same when using a digital meter so I also use an old 1950's cap checker with an eye tube like the tuning eye tube on old console radios to zero in on the value.
Ideally the drivers would read pretty much the same but in the real world they really don't. They aren't that far off and when dealing with that low of a resistance other things come into play like how well the meter probe makes a clean resistance free connection to what your measuring so to me it's a judgement call.If the voice coil got hot from being over driven, some windings could short together but that's just guessing and I'd think if that happened, the driver would be cooked and not working rather than being an ohm or two different. But that is just my an opinion.
If I were you I'd just replace the 2.84 and the 5.7 and not try to second guess the design or if the drivers are bad or if the diaphragms in the tweeters were replaced. Again, just my opinion.
Because the 3 ohm 12W woofer and that mid weren't items that were used in their previous and larger speakers with a 12db per octave xover at their more conventional xover points, I can only assume that they did what they had to do to get the desired result.
The use of 4,8 and 16 ohm drivers like in the Esquires is already pretty unconventional without any added mysteries or "tricks" they used.
Edits: 01/15/17Follow Ups:
Caps are in uF on meter. Not ohms. Edit/correction made in original post.
Edits: 01/16/17
Craig,With the red and black markings now known it looks to me like the drivers are wired in electrical phase with each other. All reds go to plus or red input and all blacks go to the minus or black input.
The Tweeters started out as 16 ohm units as did most of the other EV drivers but over the years the tweeters were available in 8 or 16 ohm and they should be marked accordingly.
I know my two 16 ohm T35's measure around 12-13 ohms so your reading of 7-8 ohms is really a mystery if the diaphragms are original.
You have two opinions so far. Mine that was just replace the 2.84 and 5.7 and see what that does and Paul's that said he would replace the pots with pots that were meant to be used with 8 ohm drivers and I take it that would also mean replacing the 2.84 caps with another 5.7 or 5.8 for what looks like the closer to 8 ohm tweeters.
I see where he's coming from about the existing tweeter pots affecting the xover point depending on where they are set but in my view that's going to happen with different pots too, but to a lesser degree because in theory you have a mismatch to start with.
We are both going on the readings you supplied from the drivers and because both sets seem to be not all that far off, it would seem logical that those are the real readings.
To me, the only truly fixed xover is an electronic one like in a bi-amp setup where the xover point won't change with different signal levels or a different driver impedance.
We were both confused about the 5.7 cap for the mids and those would remain in either case unless you changed out the mid drivers and at that point, at least in my opinion, you might as well get different speakers because now you'd also probably have to change the xover parts for the woofer too.
I'm thinking that you like the RCA sound better because it's not as bass or lower mid heavy. In listening to my Esquires I find that somewhat annoying and it does sound like they aren't very open but they are what they are.
Edits: 01/16/17
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