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In Reply to: RE: Single driver love/hate ? posted by rodge827 on April 17, 2016 at 19:47:46
Well, I bet they do sound nice. However, for a fraction of the price, a simpler full range with a sealed sub and super tweeter used at the extremes will probably sound more satisfying. Removing the last bass octave or two from the full range driver will lower midrange distortion noticeably. A 3 way 'full range' system will do it all, from small groups to full scale symphonic music. Just my opinion of course, but I have experimented with this a fair amount. One good thing, you can try it and always go back to full range if you prefer. I bet you wont.
Edits: 04/18/16Follow Ups:
The OP was asking about Single drivers...not 3 way designs. I get your point that you could build an OK sounding speaker using a "full range" driver and augmenting the bass and highs for less money. I'm offering up my experience of a single driver horn that is very meticulously built and sounds waaaay better than it should! No crossover, no sub, and no tweeter!
The biggest problems with mostly all single driver designs is the enclosure and how it reacts with the room. Charney designed his horns on the Tractrix Theory and the result is phenomenal. The rear loaded horn seems to "couple" with the room. I listened to them at Charneys 14x19x9 room and at a nearby customers (friend of Charney) room that is a narrow attic room with sloped left and right walls that went from 4' to 8' and about 13'w and 15'l. Both rooms sounded fantastic with very good bass and only small panels for the first reflection point.
BTW: My Maestros will be ready in late May.
"Grow older not up !!!"
Jimmy Buffett
Is it possible to build a good Open Baffle speaker with a single full range driver? I was reading about Emerald Physics and am impressed with their Open Baffle designs.
Best Wishes
Bill
They have two problems: Poor bass, and poor highs.
I *get* the idea of no crossover through most of the audio range, and that's a good and attainable goal. But you're NOT going to get good bass and good high end from a single driver.
A 3-way is the minimum for a high quality speaker.
:)
Just hooked up the BK-16's with Fostex FE166en speakers. They don't sound bad right out of the box. More bass then I thought. And my tubes aren't very good in the bass department yet. I'm powering the BK-16's with a newly built TubeLab Single End 300B amp. All the parts in the amp need to break in also. I replaced the electrolytic caps in the power supply with Mundorf Poly tube caps. So I'm sure they all need to break in. And my Psvane Treasure MKII 300B tubes only have 14 hours on them. I read that the bass and treble from these tube will bloom sometime over the next 300 hours. So they are in the garage playing now. I go in every so often to check on things. So far so good. They claim the FE166en's don't need a super tweeter. We will see. I am building sub woofers for them. I let you all know how things progress.
You can often avoid the super tweeter, as I have heard single drivers with decent enough high end, but I find adding a sub is always beneficial. Be sure to limit the low end of the single driver to clean up the midrange. This is easily done by just reducing the value of a coupling cap that most likely is already in the chain somewhere. Select a value to give you -3db at the upper limit of your sub. To do this properly, you need to use a signal generator and a scope (or multimeter), so you can see the -3db point. Keep adjusting the value of the cap until the right value is found.
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