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In Reply to: RE: I didn't read the article, but it seem like a built-in voltage divider posted by Dan_ed on March 14, 2012 at 04:22:47
When I was an audiophile and cared too much about sound quality n things like sound stage n vinyl. When I closed my eyes the sound stage disappeared. My theory was that you hear ultra hi frequencies through your eyes :)|)ooop trebles gone :) there it is. One day when they discover this is true you all wont be laughing then.
Follow Ups:
Are you serious?
lol maybe :) on a more serious note ray P,s contribution I second. Briggs did the best r&d on open baffle and his article is essential reading. I plan to drop over and read it again now. Ever since I read it the first time I have been looking for the drivers that where specially designed for these baffles. I have the woofers so far they are awesome. I have used the je lab baffle on and off for fives years with little success even with km30. You need a large or at least very long room for it to work well. In smaller rooms I think open back boxes might be better. I plan to try this soon for my km 30. I have a nice set of sealed boxes I plan to just cut a large slot out of the rear and damp really well. Briggs drives where something really special when used in this baffle how they where meant to be. Unfortunately they are by a lot of comments I have read very unreliable especially at this age.
Interestingly I have seen many variations of warfedales open baffles of that error come up for sale but never seen them documented.
On thing that is important that nobody seems to agree with me is the driver needs to be filtered at the low end so it does over excurt with the smaller baffles.
I don't think the problem with the Briggs/Warfedale drivers is that they are unreliable. I have a pair of Warfedale W90's at my mother’s house, that get daily use. We have never had a problem with them. The drivers are also beautifully built. I think the main problem is that people try to drive them with big transistor amps, and they were not designed for that, so they blow. It is not the speakers fault, it is the operator.
Dave
Yes interesting article. Note he uses heavy grill cloth to deal with the problem of over excursion. I would use a pair of Rubicons actively biased with 9 volt battery's. If I built another of these baffle types I would definitely go sand filled. I never could stop my solid timber baffles from sounding colored. And also note how important having 2 drivers is to evening up the bass response. Another seemly forgotten part of the Briggs baffle. All so note this and other baffles are not SE amp friendly or most 2a3 0 feedback amp friendly anyway. They need a higher damping factor to succeed. Some of the best sound I got out of mine was was from a seiman's 2000 projector amp which was designed for single speaker open baffle. It employed an el84 SE plate to grid feedback low frequency eq with sub frequency cut via reduced transformer inductance. That little el84 amp or amps gripped my km30's and rock and rolled. With open baffle my purist approach was to my ultimate torment for too long. As briggs said he used a amp with a damping factor of 15 and still eqed the bass. I will be interesting if I can get the km30's ballanced in open back boxes. If I can get them working well I will sell the suckers and buy a pair of radian 950pbs and aria wood mid horns :)
I've heard deep base throght the seat of my pants, so I guess it is possible...
Dave
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