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In Reply to: Close-up on Right Rack posted by Christine Tham on August 7, 2005 at 02:46:08:
What is the back of the cabinet made of? Is it solid wood, veneer or just fiberboard?
You could cut away parts of the back, low in each cubby so it is right behind each componant, and run all the cords in back of the cabinet.
You may also want to switch from twist ties to zip ties. The only downside is when you want to make changes, they have to be cut off.
I have a Sound Organization rack for my equipement and because it is metal with glass shelves, I have cords zip tied to one another and the frame of the rack. Makes it very easy to pull the rack out if I need to tweek something in back.
Just some suggestions, good luck
i'm thinking of removing the entire back panel (which is made of fibreboard) and just let the wires hang loose from the back. probably helps with heat dissipation as well :-)
...to maintain lateral stability (i.e., remain square). Try to remove it such a way that you can put it back on if necessary. I have the same problem with my cabinet. I decided to drill holes with a holesaw. An inelegant solution to be sure, but effective.
because I recently assassinated the back of my cabinet with some sort of circular saw. It was very ugly. If hired help had laid waste to a hunk of wood in that manner I would be suing him or her for several types of damages including malicious destruction. But man was it worth it!
Fortunately, the back of the cabinet is out of view so the hack job is not at all visible. Most of all it has worked perfectly! Prior to my whacking out the back of a portion of the cabinet the installation of a single component would be a two-person two-hour job. And heaven forbid if I wired something incorrectly. Now the *same* job might take 15 minutes.
A few weeks ago Guy Hammel of Placette Audio, who designed and built my passive multi-channel line stage was in the San Francisco Bay Area and paid me a visit. We were able to slip a piece of gear in and out in just a few minutes. I thought I had died and gone to heaven. Knocking out that back wall has made life so much simpler.
A circular saw requires far too much skill for me. Besides, I had to work with the cabinet in its upright position, hence the hole saw. Unfortunately, I did not have the good sense to buy a hole saw with a diameter large enough to drill holes large enough for my hand to fit through. Nevertheless, reconnecting cables is easier than before... just not easy enough.
Correction. Being a complete novice (and an idiot) when in comes to working with wood I incorrectly said that I used "some sort of a circular saw" to hack out a back portion of the cabinet. I double checked and I used a Black and Decker "jigsaw". A jigsaw, of course, takes a lot less skill and far less dangerous than a circular saw.
Robert C. Lang
A skilled craftsman probably would have used a hole saw to cut out rounded corners of an otherwise rectangular openning and then used a jigsaw guided by a straight-edged jig to cut the sides of the rectangular openning but that level of care would be out of character for me. Hey! When did this morph into the woodworking asylum?
This is the antithesis of a woodworking asylum. But I have one more tidbit to share. Truth be told I, in fact, did start out with a saw hole to launch my assault on the cabinet.
Here's what happen. It all came to a head when I received my new EMM Labs gear that I had been anxiously waiting for the previous 8 weeks or so. I installed the new gear, that because of the solid back of the cabinet, and because it was multi-channel which made things exponentially more complicated, took hours to complete. The only thing I had to do was to connect the power cords to the EMM Labs gear and listen to some glorious music.
That's when Murphy called. The EMM Labs came with two huge Kimber Power cords and I could not get them through the "cable slot" in the back of the cabinet. I almost hit the roof. I was so near yet so far. I had no way to plug in the power.
The following day a friend of mine came to my rescue with a saw hole drill attachment, much like I suspect a locksmith would use to drill a large hole for a lock or door handle. That enabled me to plug in the new gear.
A few days later I said, "screw it" I'm knocking out this cursed back wall. I bought the jigsaw and used the newly made screw holes from which to launch my assault on the cabinet back.
An oversize power cord connector led me to commence drilling operations too. More importantly, how do you like your EMM Labs gear? How does it compare to the Sony SCD-1 (or how does the Sony SCD-1 compare to it)? Currently, I am in repair purgatory with my Sony SCD XA777ES.
At some point I will get around to doing a "review" of the EMM Labs combo. I find doing such write ups extremely difficult particularly since I'm not comfortably fluent with audiophile descriptions which are themselves not very meaningful or helpful.
I will say that the EMM Labs combo, for me, is worth every single nickel that I paid for it both for two-channel and for the main reason I chose it over competitors, multi-channel playback. I'm not about to diss the SCD-1 like many have. It has been a tremendously fine performer in my system. And if I did not want to try to get more close to a real musical experience with multi-channel the SCD-1 would still be my SACD player. I will say that I have found several very revealing and distinct music passages that, for me, show that the EMM Labs turns it up a notch in its ability to reveal detail in a way that is not possible with the SCD-1.
Robert C. Lang
Started with jigsaws to enlarge holes; in one case I just removed the whole back panel. Then I relegated the entertainment center to the master bedroom after I moved.
The loops in the cables and they way they are tied together isn't the greatest idea, it might encourage RF issues. Sometimes a random rats-nest is best, or if you want to be organized and need to cross wires, try to do it at right angles.
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