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In Reply to: RE: Just received my Fostex T50RP headphones. posted by Thorsten on November 09, 2013 at 01:21:56
Thorsten,
Thank You for all the info and advice. I really appreciate it.
I did fogot to mention my post that I had already ordered the Shure 840 earpads, so they are on their way. I was thinking the same thing about making the earpads more puffy. Thanks for the info on the paper towel stuffing. I will give this a try.
The wire and plug are going to go, I was looking at that as soon as I opened up the package. so I will make my own 4 wire braided cable with nicer plugs.
I just wanted to get more out of the Tube/mosfet headphone amp first which those simple cap upgrades did make a huge differenece already and the unit hasn't even hit 24 hours of break-in on the new caps yet.
I wanted to see what the Shure ear pads would do first and then I wanted to tape and stuff the cups. just not sure what type of molding clay to use. Is this the clay that dry's in time or something else that will stay soft for damping purposes?
I was going to do the stuffing and taping of the cup vents last just to see what I get with just the earpads with the stuffing technique and wire upgrades.
The link you provided has a lot good info and tips so I should be able to have these sounding great in no time! Just can't believe how much more better this will get from what I'm hearing already.
Thank you again!
Cougar
Follow Ups:
Hi,
I decided to forgo the clay nd instead use my trusty hot melt glue gun. That stuff stays fairly tacky (does not set solid but is a little rubery). It depends on the stick you choose.
This stuff is the dope if you often "hack up" things for mods (Ido that more or less for a living - it is called design, you get the first PCB, it is full of undocumented features and some stuff worked fine in the sim but stubbornly refuses to do in reality - so you start cutting traces, flying wires, adding parts etc. - Then you design a PCB and do it again,hopefully much less this time).
It holds over sized comonents in place, secures wires jumping components/tracks (or more fun, soldered to pins of SMD IC's that have been pried up from the PCB) and can be used for strategic damping of components too...
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hot-melt_adhesive
One of my Junior Engineers (Chris - he has since moved on and is rather senior in his new place) loved gumming up everything improvised in the stuff, he was a veritable Christo of the Hot Melt Glue Gun. He left the Gun when he left and I guess he rubbed off on me... ;-)
Applying that stuff to the baffle took it's sound when flicked by a finger nail from "boingbringnnnnnnnnnnnnnn", to a very dull "thud"... And it is very, very quick. It also seales holes, can be sculpted into diffusers and brings world peace and cures cancer (okay, I am joking for the last two).
Every modder should have the stuff and know how to use it...
BTW, the T50RP strike me as prime candidates for driving balanced from common HP Chip's (targeted at 60 Ohm), with 1 Watt Thermal power handling I have reason to believe that the extra power would allow a lot of bass boost to be applied to make the bottom subjectively flat, with little drawback...
Right now I use the max Bass boost on the iFi iCan headamp (I must note I designed it and make money from it's sales, this is not an advert, I just use it myself) and this is limited at the very low end to avoid clipping the amp, damaging customers headphones and all that. That is not about making all Headphones sound like Monster Beats BTW, but about the very low stuff, many headphones freak out even with this modest amount of boost VERY LOW down...
I think more power and more boost sub 30Hz would be nice.
The modded T50RP's bass is so nimble, fast and propulsive, it makes you you want to crank it up past 11 not for bass boom, but for bass bloom... ;-)
Well, when I for the first time heard "Totally addicted to Bass" by the Puretones I thought "I totally resemble this remark"...
Ciao T
Sometimes I'd like to be the water
sometimes shallow, sometimes wild.
Born high in the mountains,
even the seas would be mine.
(Translated from the song "Aus der ferne" by City)
Hi Thorsten,
if I remember correctly you did some DIY Tube phono preamps a while back, Correct?
"I decided to forgo the clay nd instead use my trusty hot melt glue gun. That stuff stays fairly tacky (does not set solid but is a little rubery). It depends on the stick you choose."
Oh Ok. Thank You for the info. I will try this hot glue adhesive stuff. hopefully I can find some here in San Diego or on the net.
"This stuff is the dope if you often "hack up" things for mods (Ido that more or less for a living - it is called design, you get the first PCB, it is full of undocumented features and some stuff worked fine in the sim but stubbornly refuses to do in reality - so you start cutting traces, flying wires, adding parts etc. - Then you design a PCB and do it again,hopefully much less this time)."
I tend to do the same thing, always modding/upgrading. I have tried the design stuff and do have some simulation software. So I understand how this work great in simulations and go crazy in REAL world applications. :)
This is why I focused on the Tube/Mosfet headphone amp first. It's Class A design and so far it has responded well to the simply upgrade with the caps. This Tube/Mosfet Class A amp really drives the Fostex nicely without any hint of strain so they are a very good match. I wanted to place those Duelund Alexander caps I have in the coupling circuit but I'm tunning this amp by ear and as of right now I will wait before doing anymore to the headphone amp cause it has everything I like and was after. as you know, sometimes doing too much before listening can also go in the wrong direction sound wise as I have found out many times myself. :) I just want to get all my sources, headphone amp sound the best then hit the Fostex T50 RP's next. can't wait for the Shure 840 earpads to come in. the bass so far has become deeper and louder but defined. It is strong when it needs to be and it does depend on the recorded material.
"Applying that stuff to the baffle took it's sound when flicked by a finger nail from "boingbringnnnnnnnnnnnnnn", to a very dull "thud"... And it is very, very quick. It also seales holes, can be sculpted into diffusers and brings world peace and cures cancer (okay, I am joking for the last two)."
ok, I did that tap and heard what you were saying so I think I will do the adhesive glue on the baffles also but I will do all these mods in steps and record what I'm hearing or not hearing :)
I agree with you that the earpads and cable will make a huge improvement right of the bat without taking the headphones about.
These Fostex are really a gem for the money and by far the best headphone I have ever heard. And to just think I was seriously considering dropping over $300 for some nice headphones. So glad I didn't
Thanks for all the help and info! can wait to do more now! :)
Hi,
> if I remember correctly you did some DIY Tube phono preamps
> a while back, Correct?
And a lot of other stuff... You can check my profile if you like.
Ciao T
Sometimes I'd like to be the water
sometimes shallow, sometimes wild.
Born high in the mountains,
even the seas would be mine.
(Translated from the song "Aus der ferne" by City)
A question.
I have a revised iCAN. Where does the bass boost occur, 30, 40, 50Hz?
TIA
"If people don't want to come, nothing will stop them" - Sol Hurok
Hi,
From a review on Headfi:
http://www.head-fi.org/products/ifi-ican-headphone-amplifier/reviews/9065
As you can see 3dB boost is around 40Hz and 120Hz for the two settings. Maximum boost is 10dB.
Ciao T
Sometimes I'd like to be the water
sometimes shallow, sometimes wild.
Born high in the mountains,
even the seas would be mine.
(Translated from the song "Aus der ferne" by City)
Excellent info!
Thanks for that.
"If people don't want to come, nothing will stop them" - Sol Hurok
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