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Say you are wiring up a duplex audiophile outlet. The outlets are connected with a conductor bar between them. Would you connect the neutral to one of them and the hot to the other, or both of them to the same one? I figure you would do the latter if you only planned to use one of the two outlets, but wondering what others think. Connecting them "diagonally" seems to equalize the connecting conductor effect if you plan to use both...
BTW, this has been discussed for speaker hookup using a single set of cables with biwire jumpers...but never thought of it regarding outlets.
Thanks, Steve
Follow Ups:
Steve,
The connecting bridge ties are capable of handling 20 amps whether the duplex receptacle is rated for 15 or 20 amps.
As for the manufacturer's recommendations I have seen it both ways. Hubbell shows it diagonal not straight across from each other.
If you are planning on only using one receptacle of the duplex receptacle then wire it straight across and use that receptacle to feed the equipment.
If the outlet box branch circuit hot and neutral make up wires are solid core and you have enough wire to work with you can loop the wire around one side terminal screw and making a small u-shape in the wire curl the remaining end of the wire around the other side terminal screw. The wire is unbroken and jumpers from one terminal screw to the other....
Carefully remove enough insulation from the wire so you can make a horseshoe curl around the first terminal screw and then form the wire to go to the other terminal screw. Remove the insulation from the end of the wire and curl it around the other screw. Tighten the screws down onto the wire. The curl should always be in the direction the screw tightens down, in a clockwise direction.
Whichever method you use if the branch circuit wire is solid core do not use the screw terminal plate method for making the connection. For solid wire the best connection is to curl the wire around the terminal screw and tighten the screw down on the wire.
Jim
Bottom right diagram on page two of link below shows a diagonal connection.
Thanks, Steve
jea48 wrote:
For solid wire the best connection is to curl the wire around the terminal screw and tighten the screw down on the wire.
I agree.
IME, the termination slots of an AC outlet are best implemented for stranded internal hookup wiring for a power line conditioner/distributor, such as a medium strand count 12 AWG stranded conductor pulled from a VH Audio Flavor power cord.
JPS in wall wire, which is stranded...and lots of them!
Steve
What you describe is a split duplex receptacle, which means if the connecting link is broken, each socket can be wired to a separate circuit. A typical split circuit application is a switched outlet that can be used to turn a table lamp on/off via a typical wall-mount light switch. The remaining outlet in the split duplex can then be used for any normal AC purpose since it's wired separately from the switched socket.
The link/bridge/tab not only provides a small surface area, it's also scored in order for it to be easily bent off with pliers or a screw driver, so it's not an ideal conductive link. Some AC outlets are not split duplex capable, and only feature one screw per polarity, and a larger conductive surface without scoring for both sockets. Oyaide AC outlets are not are not split duplex capable, so both sockets offer unaffected conductivity.
Some folks who use a split duplex capable receptacle choose to bend-off the links and instead use high quality wire to make the connection. Whether or not one socket is favored by direct-wiring it, then bridging current to the other socket, or using a staggered wiring scheme is up to the end user to decide what's best to their ear.
...XXX to a Furutech GTX-D Rhodium for one of my outlets off the dedicated subpanel. Very impressive construction, but still breaking in. Did not even realize that the Oyaide did not trigger these thoughts due to its construction. Doh!
I have tried Wattgate, FIM, Acme silver, all the Oyaides, the Maestro and this Furutech. They each change the sound in some way. Just need to decide what sound you want! One of the very cheapest ways to change the overall sonic character of a system, IMHO.
Thanks, Steve
"Say you are wiring up a duplex audiophile outlet."
Why is wiring up an "audiophile" duplex outlet supposed to be different?
"The outlets are connected with a conductor bar between them. Would you connect the neutral to one of them and the hot to the other"
The neutral (white) goes to the steel colored screw and the hot (black) goes to the brass colored screw. If you do it any differently, you're intentionally wiring the outlet improperly.
"or both of them to the same one?"
That will short the wires together, and your breaker will pop every time you turn it on.
"I figure you would do the latter if you only planned to use one of the two outlets, but wondering what others think."
Ah, I think I see what you mean. Do you wire hot and neutral to one level and not the other? Personally, I would wire them to the same level.
"Connecting them "diagonally" seems to equalize the connecting conductor effect if you plan to use both..."
The what? Connecting them diagonally will ensure that there's always one bar in the path of the AC mains.
"BTW, this has been discussed for speaker hookup using a single set of cables with biwire jumpers...but never thought of it regarding outlets."
If you perform this experiment on speakers, and find the effects barely noticeable, they will be even more difficult, if not impossible, to hear the difference on an outlet.
If all this is just too much for you, buy outlets with only one set of screws so that you don't have to worry about it.
He knows about hot and neutral but this is two outlets with one feed of Romex.
ET
Whats a "connecting conductor effect"?
makes no difference hows you connect it, as long as it connected correctly. Promise.
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