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Greetings.
I am having difficulty with the 'final' stage of balancing my tt. It is a Thorens 160 B Mark2.
There is a tiny 'wave'. I suspect that the drive belt is causing it. It is running on the lower edge part of the inner platter which may be causing an anomoly. I have tried a new Thorens belt. I have read a lot of articles and googled a lot.
I have tried adjusting the motor pulley shaft using the three screws. I am having zero success. I don't understand the three screws. If it was making me laugh I'd call them the Three Stooges. But that ain't so.
I loosen them, so that the shaft leans away from the platter then tighten them. i assume thats correct. Its only a small amount. The part of the shaft that the belt turns on is on the same plane/height as the lower part of the platter side. The leaning back of the shaft does not raise the level of the belt on the platter.
Should the motor shaft sit higher?
How do I get the belt to travel midway up on the inner platter.
Can anyone help me.
Thx so much for any advice,
Bob
"You have to leave something to your imagination"
Follow Ups:
Thank you,
I have had my Thorens for 3 yrs and have had problems since using an external arm that mounted separatly - removing the original arm. This has caused many problems with balancing e.g. counter lead weights on the 'old arm' spot; stiff platter; belt problems.
I have constantly spent time trying the fix these problems especially during my holidays.
But yesterday I had a revelation. An epiphany. And then success with every problem being solved one after the other.
Platter bouncing nicely, level too and a breeze to adjust. All with no counter weight for old tonearm ! Belt riding correctly. The sound is amazing ! Singing and sweet. 3 dimensional. Free . Best yet.
The revelation I had was to replace two 50mm suspension screw studs with 65mm length. Same gauge - just longer. Didn't replace the one where the screw head is under the top facia. As it happens, its wasn't necessary. The 65mm studs seem to allow for increased scope with a slight capabilty that the 50mm stud screw did not give. This has increased the scope of the balancing adjustment which I found necessary if one is to remove the original tonearm from the equation. The only thing I was concerned about was the final sound. What would the effect of slightly less spring tension cause.
1. I tightened the left screw to raise the platter well above the small safety stud that is beside the motor. The other two sus. studs I lowered to a position that easily levelled the platter and compensated for the missing tonearm component. It was very bouncy and too much horizontal movement, although easy to level. Result: Sarah Vaughan sounded like she was in the bathroom and tired.
2. I incremently lowered the left screw to lower the platter closer to the safety stud but always maintaining adequate bounce. Then easily tightened and adjusted the other two springs to level.
Result: Sarah Vaughan gradually making her way to the perfect concert hall,
After four/five small adjustments. Wow! Everything gradually fell into place. Perfect bounces and steady and better horizontal control. Do I need to consider a horizontal spring for compensation? But focussed with all the imaging and staging I could ever have wished for. Sweet sound. Easy to balance. Belt correct. Level platter.
I have felt that I have really learnt something.
Thx for your comments.
Bob
"You have to leave something to your imagination"
"You have to leave something to your imagination"
On my 166, I had replaced the standard Thorens arm with a Rega 250, and a special armboard. Better sound in general. But this did mess up the balance a bit and could never get the suspension exactly right. Glad you found a solution!!
see below.
Getting the suspension centered so it doesn't wobble and just bounces up and down is worthwhile.
Warmest
Tim Bailey
Skeptical Measurer & Audio Scrounger
Thx Tim,
I have rea dos many of your article sand learnt a heap.
Bob
"You have to leave something to your imagination"
Don't kill yourself adjusting the screws. Get it as close to level as possible (of course, the frame as well) with the screws, and let it settle in. A little 'wave' is in the scheme of things is not going to ruin the sound, and is the price paid for the concept of the suspended platter/tonarm.
Cheers
Of the 3 screws, the one near the sub platter is for the azimuth, and will adjust the the ride of the belt up or down, the other 2 screws should be always be fixed.
Tip: place the platter upside down on the sub platter, so that you can see the position of the belt when rotating.
Regards,
Mike.
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