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I just finished putting a new stuffed pair of boards in a Stereo 35. These are the original reproduction type, matching the old ones exactly. My question is now I have a random redplate problem on the output tubes. Cant seem to pinpoint any one exactly, it has happened to tubes on both boards. I literally rebuilt the entire thing including the can caps and all bias resistors. So I start measuring resistors on the board, and I find that R10 which is listed as 27K, measures 1.3k on both boards, everything else is spot on. Have I found the problem? I triple checked every connection and everything is fine. If this isn't causing the problem, I am truly lost. I haven't done anymore trouble shooting at this point. Any Stereo 35 gurus that can provide insight, I would greatly appreciate any help. It does fire up and plays music out of both channels without any unusual noises, burning or other unusual issues. Just a tube will start to go very red after a short time, usually 5-10 minutes. Thanks in advance........Jeff
Follow Ups:
If you look at the schematic you'll see that R10 is in parallel with R3. Both R3 and R10 are tied to ground, R10 thru the secondary of the OPT. So the reading of approx. 1.3K Ohms is normal.
Craig
You don't go into details, but you do say "all bias resistors", so I'm going to assume your ST-35 has been modified to employ individual fixed bias to the output tubes. The stock ST35 uses one resistor, in a cathode bias scheme.
You've rechecked your connections, which is good. Have you cleaned your tube sockets, and checked the contacts for mechanical security? Since it's taking five to ten minutes to red plate, the contacts could be expanding as the amp heats up.
I'd follow Xaudiomanx's advice regarding checking those resistor values. Lift one leg out of the circuit prior to measuring them.
Lastly, if the assumption of your amp having individual fixed bias is correct, strongly consider converting it to Dave Gillespie's EFB circuit. For a few dollars in parts, you will get better measured performance, and subjectively better sound than standard fixed bias, and longer tube life than standard cathode bias.
Good luck with your great amp!
Before changing the R10 resistor because it is measuring improperly I would take it out of the circuit on one end and then measure it. Sometimes resistors measure improperly if they are in the circuit totally. Do that before trying to replace something that might not need to be replaced.
Now the red plate issue would be the output tubes are drawing too much current. The current draw is determined by the voltage on the plate and the resistor on the cathode as this is a cathode biased amp.
Are you using individual cathode resistors or combined? I think the combined of the output tube value of the resistor is 390R/5W and the individual is 180R/5w. 10W is better if you can fit them. Use a good quality noninductive type(Mills). Make sure you have a good ground connection to one side of the cathode resistor. If you are using a bypass cap on the resistor make sure they are oriented properly.
I know this may sound stupid but make sure your tubes are wired correctly. It seems suspicious that both channels are doing it.
So sorry.
Two tubes combined use a 180R resistor and individual they us a 390R. Usually when you double the resistor you used half the cap value on that resistor.
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