 
|
Audio Asylum Thread Printer Get a view of an entire thread on one page |
For Sale Ads |
|
|
Audio Asylum Thread Printer Get a view of an entire thread on one page |
For Sale Ads |
76.220.25.80
15 gauge?
13 gauge?
12 gauge?
Does it even matter at 48 watts?
Follow Ups:
Bigger diameter wire will be better sounding even if it is not of "audiophile" quality. T
Here ya go! (Who knows? Might actually make it sound very, very good...)
Yea, And someone accused ME of overkill for wanting a high current PS for my dac.
Yep, now we know what happened to the cat!
Looks like a python is about to devour your HiFi
While large gauge power cords are most often recommended for high current applications, from an audiophile perspective, low current applications also benefit from large gauge power cords, no matter how minuscule the current draw may be. This is to say, even a digital application with low current demand often sounds substantially better when a large gauge power cord is selected vs. a smaller gauge design. So you'll need to ask yourself what matters when choosing a power cord for a low current digital application. From a safety POV, a typical stock 18 AWG power cord will safely deliver AC, but from a sonic POV, a well-designed large gauge audiophile quality power cord often provides substantially higher performance, even for a low current application.
Couldn't agree more. Bigger is better. Follow Dusters advice. T
Trying to find out what the point of diminishing returns might be for a 48W digital device where we know a 15 gauge power cord would work fineb and be more than adequate for the load.
But would a 13 gauge or even 12 gauge be expected to work better?
What I mean is a typical 18 AWG power cord is sufficient from a safety perspective. The issue to address is not what's adequate for the load, it's a matter of audiophile performance rather than seeking a power cord based on the current draw of a source component.
I use a 10 AWG Acrolink 7N-P4030 II power cord terminated with Furutech FI-50 Gold AC connectors placed on my low current DAC, and find the presentation to sound substantially better than a 14 AWG Acrolink 7N-P4020III in comparison, which was a good opportunity to compare the gestalt of two power cords of identical design other than the gauge of the conductors. That said, for system tuning purposes and budget restraints, there are a number of 14 AWG power cords that perform very well, but often present a smaller scale soundstage presentation than that of a 10 AWG power cord, or even a 12 AWG power cord which is not even twice the cross section of a 14 AWG power cord.
In fact, early findings of folks in Cable Asylum indicate very large gauge power cords can often sound very good for low current digital transports, such as increased image density and bass weight with slam as a result, IME.
.
Normal run of 5-6 feet, 15 gauge will be plenty sufficient.
The problem is if you have a short circuit in the device and it is protected by a 20 amp breaker in the panel the device will not be protected by the breaker and will go up in flames. That is why there is an electrical code. The 48w has nothing to do with it. I encourage people in doing diy projects but power chords need UL approval
Alan
The problem is if you have a short circuit in the device and it is protected by a 20 amp breaker in the panel the device will not be protected by the breaker and will go up in flames.
Actually the branch circuit breaker is there to protect the in wall branch circuit wiring. NEC code stops at the front face of the wall receptacle and cover plate. Naturally if a connected load overloads, short circuits, or creates a ground fault condition, beyond the breaker's set overload or short circuit handle rating, Hopefully it will trip open.
Cord size only needs to meet the FLA of the equipment it is connected to. Example, a clock radio. 18/2 is quite common. Same for the typical table lamp.
What I should add that addresses the concern you may have about an appliance/equipment cord causing an electrical fire, back in 1999 NEC first introduced the use of AFCI (Arc Fault Circuit Interrupter) protection in bedrooms. In 2008 and then in 2011 NEC added even more areas where 120V 15 and 20 amp Branch circuits were required to be AFCI protected. (Note, this applies to Residential dwelling units occupancies. Also AHJ, 'Authority Having Jurisdiction', has the final say in your area.)
Fast forward to 2014 NEC code edition ALL 120V 15 and 20 amp branch circuits used in habitable areas/rooms shall be AFCI protected. I hear the new 2017 NEC code will require GFCI protection as well.
"The problem is if you have a short circuit in the device and it is protected by a 20 amp breaker in the panel the device will not be protected by the breaker and will go up in flames."I disagree with the 'goes up in flames' comment. A 24awg wire will take 29amps for 10 seconds. A 20awg will take 58amps for 10 seconds. And if your breaker is faster than that, a 24awg wire will take more than 60A for one second. Or were you meaning the 15awg that the OP was asking about? 15awg will take more than 500 AMPS for 1 second.
Also you seem to be simultaneously suggesting that this thin cable doesn't have enough current-carrying capability to trip a breaker, but at the same time can carry enough current to cause something (the device, the cable) to 'go up in flames'.
So what goes up in flames exactly? The device? The wire? How does that happen?
Sounds like fear-mongering to me. And I speak as someone who has tripped a fair number of breakers, so I know what it takes.
Edits: 02/29/16
.
It can be difficult to convince some folks that an audiophile power cord design that is not UL tested, is somehow unsafe to advocate within a public forum.
I re-terminated the family extension cord with a new AC plug bought from a local hardware store when I was a teenager.
That DIY project wasn't UL "approved" ;-)
Cheers, Duster
If one is using bulk cable that is UL listed, and another brand of connector that is UL listed, then the only issue in question is the build quality or integrity. A bulk, commercial-grade or computer-grade molded power cable is not necessarily safer because it was made by machine....but if someone deems that low quality cable "good enough", so be it.
This can be puzzling. For personal use you can build your own power cord using UL and or CSA cord and connectors. Yes, the components are UL Listed but not the assembly.
IF you are making power cords for sale then technically, in some states, it might say they must be assembled by a licensed electrician or a licensed electrical maintenance person if they will not be safety tested and Listed by a recognized third party. In commercial and industrial facilities electricians and or maintenance personnel make up power cords all the time.
What may come into play is a liability issue in the case of a law suite being filed on the 'non qualified'seller, of the power cord's assembled.
Good example is the power cord below in the link. In some states if it was proven the cord was the cause of an electrical fire where personal injury or loss of life resulted, the maker/seller of the cord could find himself named in a lawsuit.
What the hell are you rambling on about?
What gauge power cord are you using with your Audio-gd DAC?
Post a Followup:
| FAQ |
Post a Message! |
Forgot Password? |
|
||||||||||||||
|
||||||||||||||
This post is made possible by the generous support of people like you and our sponsors:
Top of Page ]
[ Contact Us ]
[ Support/Wish List ]
[ Copyright © 2024, Audio Asylum, all rights reserved ]
