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Cotton insulated wire could have problems with oxidation?
I would like to try it for a DIY interconnect but I have this doubt...
Thom
Follow Ups:
Go ahead, make your cables and don't worry about oxidation.
IME, if you are using good wire, this concern is more hype than real.
Other than a bad reaction between copper and plastic used by Monster Cable many years ago, I do not remember seeing or hearing about any significant problems with corrosion, particularly in audio listening rooms, which are not typically corrosive environments.
All the SCs and ICs I am currently using are made from high-quality, solid core copper in cotton, and they sound great. Things that solid core copper in cotton do well are an even-handed handling of the frequency range (nothing jumps out), good balance between attack and decay, and a convincing tonal presentation. They are also dynamic and particularly do macro-dynamics well.
If you want added protection, finish your cables using whatever construction method you have planned and then provide a vapor barrier by wrapping the completed construction using teflon tape. I use something called Blue Monster, which is easy to work with because it is a bit thicker than the standard white plumber's teflon tape, and it comes in a 3/4-inch thickness so it doesn't take forever to wrap cables. After wrapping the cables with teflon, use your favorite tech-flex covering over the whole thing. If you are really worried, cover any small exposed portions of wire inside the connectors with Q-dope, liquid plumbers tape, or something similar, or seal the wire inside the connectors using adhesive-lined heat-shrink.
Connecting it to the connector and the type of connector are also an important consideration. With Cu you want a gas tight crimp or joint (to avoid oxidation which acts like a resistor). If you don't have the appropriate crimp tool (most don't) or an ultrasonic welder (no-one excepting Blue Jeans) solder with a decent soldering iron and tip and use quality solder with silver content. The connectors are usually made of brass which is not a very good conductor, if you are going silver don't save here. I believe pure Cu with silver is more desirable (and discernable) but if can afford it go the whole Monty and buy connectors with pure silver contacts.
"go the whole Monty and buy connectors with pure silver contacts."
Like what? Please provide examples.- Thanks.
I've used these with great results, easy to solder, nice engagement with the RCA socket. You can buy them here at a steal....http://stores.ebay.com/AYUMI-STUDIO?_trksid=p2047675.l2563
KLE also make silver RCA's
Eichmann makes then @ $178 a set (silver)
Forgot the picture.
A relatively inexpensive hydraulic crimp tool from Harbor Freight does a good job of creating tight crimps, particularly with SCs. I also agree with soldering (my favorite method for IC connections). Although high silver content solders are popular now, I still like Cardas quad eutectic solder because it is easy to work with, creates a solid, mostly fail-safe joint, and IMO it sounds good. Finally, look into Furutech's line of connectors as many of them are made from pure-copper. If you use something else, try to find connectors that are at least constructed of bronze, which has a higher copper-content than brass. Of course, pure silver or copper are better, sonically.
You mean like the one in the link?
I'm having trouble picturing the mechanics of how this exactly works, and what connectors would fit in that slot etc.. please more detail on specific wire and connectors etc..
Any Youtube videos of someone doing this sort of thing?
Thanks.
Exactly that one. It comes with a bunch of different sized dies that you can size to your work. Insert a spade with wire inside and then the hydraulic pressure can be used to squeeze the living s__t out of the wire/connector. You basically end up with the spade and wire virtually fused together. I have never had a connection come apart. You could probably also use it on crimp sleeves. However,, I don't use it on ICs, which I solder.
For a more conventional approach, buy a racheting crimp tool.
If you crimp the s**t out of it the terminal will fall off. You overcome the mechanical strength of the material/wire. Then no electrons will flow. There are RCA connectors that you can crimp with specialized tooling that crimps very well, problem is that not everyone likes using co-axial cable for interconnects. http://www.rpelectronics.com/ct-419-compression-crimp-tool-bnc-f-rca-connectors-rg58-59-6.html
I've been involved with crimping technology since 1983 - not so simple. My argument is if you're dropping so much coin on a set of cables, at least you should be sure that the wire is attached properly. I still prefer soldering - thanks for the heads up re Cardas solder.
Fells... can you provide some pictures? I know what cotton insulation is but not sure of it's implementation and corresponding outer sheathing.
The first one that comes to mind is the cotton insulated solid core copper wire from Jupiter Condenser Co. There may be other brands and types available. More info at link below.
Edits: 12/15/15
The Jupiter wire has excellent tonal qualities and is amongst the best I have heard.
my best interconnects are sablon panatellas and they're cotton-sheathed. they are silver wire, so duster's point about cotton being a match for silver wire may be on point.
Yes, the cotton silver marriage is key as on my Speltz interconnects.
ET
Awe-d-ofile....When talking Speltz..is that Anti-Cables you talk about? If so, my Anti's silver cables are just red with no cotton insulation. Just wondering
Go to the site and see the pictures. The signal wire on the higher models is silver with cotton. The basic models are enamel coated copper which are red like the spiraled ground return.
ET
Awe-d-ofile.. thanks for the clarification. All my interconnects are balanced and with a very close inspection, you can see the cotton wrapping. What I didn't see was the 3rd wire connection, but Paul assured me that it is there via E-mail.
It's a popular method when using silver wire, since silver oxide tends to present a more benign conductive nature than copper oxide, which can be corrosive and have a negative effect on the conductivity of the critical surface of a copper wire. The surface of a wire is where a vital aspect of signal transfer occurs, and it's why an audiophile cable may feature polished or "perfect surface" conductors, as well as designs that help mitigate the skin effect of a conductor.
It's OK as I see it . It can oxidize without an issue as long as the connection points at each end are done such that there is no oxidation there. You have the advantage of the cotton compared to other coverings from enamel to Teflon and so on.
ET
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