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My new amp was powered temporarily by the dubious appearing Mapleshade tweaky power cord.
While it unquestionably improves the sonic outcome of my system, I don't want to A: have a freak accident where I fry and burn the house down
B: have some failure and amp is done
C: Spend a lot of dough=$200 max
Just gave a value aftermarket cord(under $100)a couple of weeks, I decided it is a noticeable notch below the weird and dangerous Mapleshade cord.
I acquired the power cord as part of a CD purchase from Mapleshade which I did used for a few years. The film jacket now has a tears which obviously becomes a concern.
Since word travels fast with today's technology, I've yet to actually read a report of someone who uses one experience a disaster?
A couple of suggestions will be appreciated. Didn't want to mention what I tried to avoid any brand plugging.
Follow Ups:
.
I've never heard of any issue other than lack of trust and confidence in the Mapleshade cord. Repair it with packing tape.E
T
Edits: 02/01/15
I've been lurking here since the early days and have read all the positive and negative stuff about Pierre's stuff and I will say this thing surprisingly does good things at least in my rig.
The IEC looks and feels like the cheapest POS connector, yet it fits snug, and no previous problems.
I don't see the product in the latest Calrad catalog, but it looks like a computer grade Calrad IEC connector, similar to the Schurter 4781.0100 IEC connector with nickel plated brass contacts.
I have heard mostly reports like yours from users, the poo poo'ers are the ones that haven't even tried them. The connectors are lower end but if it works.......
E
T
Here's a good find. VH Audio's Flavor 2 power cord (12 AWG) terminated with Furutech FI-11M(Cu) AC plug and Furutech FI-11(Ag) IEC connector is my favorite configuration for lower-cost level applications. YMMV
See link:
... than hopelessly underwhelming VH Audio Flavor <...plug a number here...> cords.
My suggestion was based on a lower-cost level option. Sure, there are other power cords that I prefer, but they are more expensive than the $200 maximum price the OP indicated for what I assume is a commercially terminated power cord. A DIY Flavor 3 terminated with Furutech FI-11M(Cu) AC plug and Furutech FI-11(Ag) IEC connector served very well when placed on a digital processor in my computer workstation system, but a DIY Acrolink 7N-P4020III power cable with the same Furutech AC connectors has surpassed it. However, the parts alone for a DIY Acrolink 7N-P4020III with the same Furutech connectors retails for $259, so a commercially terminated version would cost well over $300. I still use the Flavor 2 cable to feed two power line conditioners in my computer workstation system; one is terminated with Oyaide 079 AC connectors for the audio gear, the other one is terminated with the Furutech FI-11M(Cu) AC plug and Furutech FI-11(Ag) IEC connector for the computer and computer peripherals. In further defense of the Flavor power cords, I find a DIY Flavor 4 terminated with Oyaide 004 Beryllium AC connectors to be an excellent option for a DIY subwoofer power cord build. I gladly use that power cord in my main audio system along with much more expensive power cords, and foresee no reason to replace it with another. YMMV
well under budget..about the same price I paid for "X" which seems to be a popular cable here.
If it doesn't exceed the Mapleshade, I won't feel beat out of 85 bucks.
AND...it looks like it means business as some of the cables I see on show rigs!
I will report my findings with this thing after a few loud sessions of my recent acquisitions of "RL" stamped Zep finds.
I think you'll find the Flavor 2 power cord with Furutech AC connectors will sound quite different than small-gauge solid core wire with hardware store variety AC plug.
I used the Mapleshade PCs quite happily until I was scared off by threads like this (I know better now). Have you tried one?
But yes, the Furutech ends are quite good and I've made a lot of PCs with them.
nt
I have always read mixed review(s) on Mapleshade cables/cords.
Yeah, just like EVERY cable out there...YMMV. I have had positive results with the interconnects and I use the footers/slabs under the table/CD
Beyond those 2 things, much of the other stuff I pass on.
That darn cable does the proverbial "veil lifting" of the entire sonic range. Bass much more realistic/visceral-mids and highs clearer and defined. Vocals have a tad more human presence.
"
With the budget cable-thick, less shaped bass and "the veil" covering the entire tone spectrum.
I see they took the cables off their site. I am going to give them a call and find out why. Perhaps a new and improved model is coming? Or...a letter from a law firm-cease and desist for their clients burned up house?
It is of interest in finding out where their cables/cords are manufactured?
If china is in the picture, get yourself different brand.
.... simply cover any holes with polypropylene tape. Problem solved.
Mapleshade used to sell such tape as well, although you can get it lots of places on the internet pretty cheaply. It is very sonically transparent and acts as a fine insulator.
Hope this helps.
Good luck!
I think I remember seeing that tape in a catalog years ago?
Man, after spending all this cash on boxes with light bulbs on top and speakers with an Italian pedigree....I TAPE MY POWER CORD?
Now THATS...slummin. I'm a bicycle snob and couldn't imagine an equivalent repair on it! 7K and I just did what?
Thanks for the suggestion anyway
One man's trash is another man's treasure. ;-)
I feel pretty confident you'll still like the Mapleshade cord best, even against the cord with the Flavor 2 wire and Furutech ends. But $80 bucks for that cable Duster recommended is a STEAL, what with the Furutech ends costing MORE than $80 between them alone. I'd jump all over that one, for sure.
If you get the $85 cable, and if you find it a touch bright at all, swap the silver/copper Furutech Fi-11 Ag IEC end for a pure copper IEC and that should eliminate the brightness. The FI-11 Ag IEC was always just a tad bright for me, and Uncle Stu reminds us often about bi-metallic contacts and dissimilar materials used in plating can make a somewhat brighter presentation. Of course, you may want that. You may not. You'll certainly find out, if you get it. It might be perfect for your needs as is.
Best of luck, and report back when you've had a chance to compare the cables and their sonics.
Have fun!
Hmm... Interesting you feel the Mapleshade may hold my interest over the Flavor cable suggested.
I wasn't sold on the potential of power cables until I swapped an existing cable I had been using for years(a very known brand, but their 2nd to bottom budget model)
It was a an eye opener. It was like I've been chocking my amp for years!
I do have reservations getting that cable only to find more of the same like brand "X"
I realize it is a great deal, so if anything, I will have an even nicer cable than the other.
Based on the suggestions and components used, maybe not?
I taped the damaged spots and the other cable now powers my phono stage AND I don't hear any obvious things like the power amp.
As long as I don't see my lame repair job, it sounds fine?
I have been saying for many, many years that cables/power cords do make a difference! Welcome to the club.
Nice points -WS!
I would like to try a Mapleshade PC someday. I guess the lowest priced PC has to be from Straight Wire- it had an excellent sound.
yikes! I don't even see a single mention of UL ratings or approval. Are there UL markings on the product or its packaging somewhere? I have trouble imagining that saran wrap insulation has proper ratings though I don't really know. Looks suspicious to me.
I would be surprised if any "audiophile" power cord is submitted for UL testing and approval.
-Wendell
Edits: 02/01/15
I'm assuming the user would be held liable for any failures due to improper application but I'm no lawyer. Seems a bit risky no matter how well it performs.
The construction is the same wire used for their speaker cable. While in theory it would seem very questionable about the wire handling high current,
I never experienced suspicious things like connectors getting warm or any warning signs. Used it for several years while the jacket was fine.
It does hold up to it's claims at least in my system.
Doesn't matter as I'm not using it. The sonic improvement, however was easily noticed.
Might as well made it out of sever paralleled twisted pairs of CAT 5e or CAT 6 data cable. Might even sound better than the Mapleshade power cord.> > >
As for the Mapleshade cord.High current would be a factor.... One problem if the current draw is higher than the wire is rated for, the wire will heat up causing the insulation to heat up and may increase the temperature to rise above the temperature rating of the insulation. If the temperature gets high enough the insulation will break down and cause arcing or a short. A short will cause the branch circuit breaker to hopefully trip open. Parallel arcing of a non AFCI protected branch will not. (See farther below in my post.)
One other point to be made about exceeding the current rating of the Mapleshade cord if the temperature of the insulation only gets marginally higher than its rating in time the insulation will harden and become brittle, especially at the terminated connector ends and crack and break apart with the least amount of physical movement.
Also just as important is the voltage rating of the insulation covering the conductors, wires. Note the wires are tightly twisted together. The insulation should be rated for at least 300V for it to be used as a power cord. If the insulation is not rated for at least 150V the insulation could break down and start leaking across from the hot conductor to the neutral conductor. The insulation is breaking down... Carbon is a semi conductor and given time a small amount of current could start passing through the carbon semi conductor from one current carrying conductor to the other current carrying conductor of the tightly twisted pair. More leakage, more carbon, more heat, eventually arcing. Before you know it a small fire. Regular old style non AFCI breakers found in homes built before around 2009 - 2010 will not trip open due to parallel/series arcing of live 120V circuit wires.
Next problem I see the cord has little if any physical safeguards in it's exterior construction to protect the current carrying conductors from physical damage. A small dog or cat could chew through the cord in short order, bye-bye pet.
Jim
Edits: 02/03/15
I'm pretty sure that if it DID happen, you'd have read about it here.
I got talked out of using the Mapleshade PC by threads like this, despite the fact that it never got remotely warm, never did anything except sound great. "If looks could kill" seems to be an appropriate comment.
After speaking with Mapleshade, I have been assured the power cord(which has been in production for over a decade, will exceed far more voltage/current than what the average piece of audio//video gear needs.
I was encouraged to use it on my amp.
The reason it is no longer offered-a new and improved version will be out soon.
Pierre supposedly, regularly trips over and tears the thin film on these cables and He doesn't even use the film covering!
While I certainly WON't be doing that...
As mentioned earlier, I have been using it for a few years with great results.
The new version will have a different wire composition and connectors will be adorned with...
SURPRISE-maple
Very encouraging to say the least. I am glad to hear Mapleshade says the wire they used in the cord for over a decade was used in the manner, use intended, the manufacture designed/manufactured the wire per NEMA/UL standards for use as "power wiring" for a general use electronic equipment power cord.I am sure if you asked them for the manufacture of the wire and data spec sheet of the manufacture for the wire, describing its' designed intended use, they will be more than happy to supply it to you and you could post it here. Please also ask where the manufacture of the wire says the power wire does not need any further protection from physical damage/abuse when used as a 120V power cord.
Thanks,
Jim
Edits: 02/04/15
....of all the aftermarket suppliers of all the audiophile power cords they sell.
??
... bearing in mind that none of them is "well known" in a conventional (non-audiophile) sense, AFAIK.
Just picked a Shunyata power cord at random.
Specs
ELECTRICAL CONDUCTORS
- Shunyata ΞTRON™
- 10 AWG Coincident Concentric Conductors
- CDA-101 Copper
- Alpha Cryogenic Processed
STANDARD CONNECTORS
- IEC-C15: Shunyata CopperCONN™ (UL Listed, CE Mark)
- IEC-C19: Shunyata CopperCONN™ (UL Listed, CE Mark)
- US NEMA P15: Shunyata CopperCONN™ (UL Listed)
- EU CEE-7/7: Shunyata CopperCONN™ (VDE, CE Mark)
AVAILABLE CONNECTORS
- US P20
- Germany Schuko
- Australia
- Swiss
Call for custom terminations
MAXIMUM VOLTAGE
- Max Voltage (US): 90-240 VAC (connector dependent)
- Max Voltage (Asia): 90-240 VAC (connector dependent)
- Max Voltage (Euro): 240VAC (connector dependent)
- Maximum Instantaneous Voltage: 1250 VAC
CURRENT RATINGS
- Max continuous current: 20 Amps (connector dependent)
- Max instantaneous current: > 200 Amps (800ms)
ELECTRICAL TESTS
- Polarity and continuity tests x2 (each cable tested)
- HiPOT Test: 2,000 VAC @ 5s (each cable tested)
- Insulation Breakdown Test: > 4,000 VAC @ 2 minutes
I don't doubt any of the things you mention. I have plugged it in for a few songs to remind me how my recent power cord buy failed to match its performance.
Great sonics won't trump safety. I am wondering why it has been pulled from their website recently?
Just guessing the secret of the Mapleshade power cord is the tightly twisted together hot and neutral current carrying conductors of the power cord.
I would be willing to bet A DIY power cord using conductors that are designed for power wiring with an insulation voltage rating of at least 300V then covered with a good overall covering that will protect the conductors from physical damage, terminated on good quality connectors would outperform the Mapleshade power cord.
Jim
I would contact Mapleshade and ask about using the PC w/ a torn jacket.
since I'm not using it, not an issue. It actually can be used since tears are aren't exposing bare wire near other wire and they are near the middle.
If any tears were near the connectors, I wouldn't let it get near an outlet.Even though it does look like a disaster,it provides an easily distinguishable improvement that I want to find without the big cash expense.
Edits: 02/01/15
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