|'); } // End -->|
I'm impressed of P&S 5242 being recommended by many members here and would like to order a few to experiment with. After looking through eesco's catalog, I've noticed there are other models with end-initials of "I", "W", "GRY", etc. I supposed they meant only colors of Ivory, White or Gray and nothing else. Is it right to assume that they are all the same but colorwise? May someone clarify this for me? Thanx.
at some point P&S changed the side screws from brass to metallic metal. I can only speculate that it was a cost consideration?
Mike what receptacle do you prefer
I'm in the market for a good receptacle and need opinions
well, I use the 5242 and 5342 outlets but they have been discontinued. The last batch I bought had magnetic metal screws. I have a large supply of new brass screws, so I replace all the screws first. I think VH audio sells the top of the line P&S outlet which should still be all brass. If you want a aftermaket outlet, keep in mind that in general, the gold and copper outlets tend to be warm and round sounding and the light color plated outlets tend to be more focused and detailed in presentation IMO.
How do you distinguish the difference between brass and nickel screws?
Do you use a magnet? I've found screws which looked brassy but still attract to magnets.
They don't make the screws out of nickel. They plate them with it. Often to denote neutral from hot screws. The hots are left brass or plated brass. Nickel plate looks like chrome. It sounds bright IMO. Some outlets have brass screws but the backing plate they go into are steel. You find this on outlets with both side and back wire attach points. Try to find a all brass outlet.
Thanx for the quick reply. I was surprised to see so many outlets with chrome plates but none with brass screws on both sides. I'd like to remove the nickel screws and use one of the two brass screws from hot but they are not removable. Did you remove them by force or there's a better way?
I have a special way to remove them from the outlets I use, but it won't work with other brands. The screws are self tapping and installed by machine. They have a stop that you have encountered. just continue to back them out. You will need to firmly hold the outlet and use a big screw driver. Good Luck
Mike, Thanx to your instruction, I've successfully backed out the screws with a big screw driver. I did it on a Hubbell 5252 which appeared to be whole brass with exception of neutral nickel screws. But guess what I've just discovered, the inner contact plate which was not visible before I removed the screws, is apparently nickel. I wanted to make sure it's made of brass so I used a small magnet-tipped screw driver to stick inside the screw hole to see if the inner plate would be attracted to the magnet.
Bad news! The plate sticks up to my magnet-tipped screw driver, that means it's made of steel! Steel is said to be the worst signal conductor for audio and now I wonder if changing the screws would do any good. This makes me curious about all the rest of outlets out there including Hubbell 5262, 5362, P&S 5262A, 5362A. Are these so called full-brass outlets have no steel equipped whatsoever? Has anyone checked on this before?
Yes, most of the backing plates are made from steel.
the 5262 Hubbell I have is all brass but they might have changed to steel. P&S did with screws on a bunch of their spec grade outlets. I can only guess that the cost of brass has become a factor.
I checked Hubbell's spec sheet. Model 5252 does have clamp plate listed as made of steel. That's a real pity since all other parts are made of brass. The 5262's clamp plate is shown as made of brass and since all manufacturers have jacked up their prices already, I don't see how it's proper for Hubbell to alter the specs for their products. It looks like Hubbell 5262 is full-brass afterall. Which makes it perhaps the best buy outlet available. Thanx Mike.
Interesting observation. I've tried Furutech FP-3GMK2(only available in Asia)which happened to be gold-plated and it sounded too soft for my tastes. I preferred a more detailed or even slightly etched type of sound especially in high frequency region. My dealer was kind enough to allow me exchange for an ATL 880CU(made by Cooper)which seemed to be all brass and sounded more detailed in comparison. I suppose cryo'd outlets would sound even more brighter and probably suits me even better. More opinions welcome.
I've been listening to the P&S MRI outlets for 2 months, and they are just amazing. I got them already cryo'd from VHaudio, and then had them cryo'd again by a friend from Audiogon whose advice I trust. They are amazing. I wouldn't say they're 'etched' like the coopers, but they are stunningly revealing. I didn't think cryoing them again would make any difference, but it was a noticeable improvement. I've had cables "double-cryo'd" before, and it didnt' make a difference, but with outlets, it seems more effective.
for a freakin' outlet. I'm still trying hard to pick the suitable cryo'd outlet since there are quite a few to choose from. We have VHaudio, CryoParts, ACME and all have received good reviews. Guess it'll take a little while longer for me to make up my mind.
If you're shopping around, consider the Furu Fi-15. Its $40, free shipping thorugh some suppliers too. Blows away any of the P&S or other OEM outlets that are cryo'd. I have a cryo'd P&S outlet from CV, its soooooo bright and nasty compared to the Furu which was $8 more. I also have 4 Oyaide SWO-XXX, one of which is cryo'd. The furu is a fantastic performer.
It's strange, because I agree with your opinions, except for the "brightness" of the P&S outlet, which I can't agree with, unless you got a "bad" issue.
I like the Furutechs alot, (except for the G models), but they just aren't "better" than the P&S, at least to the extent you're stating.
Have you tried a cryo'd P&S MRI outlet?
haven't tried the MRI, they may be a difft beast than the 5262 i bought from CV, but the brightness I experience is definitely not subjective! for me, there's no comparison the furu or Oyaide's & so for an extra $10 over what the P&S costs the furu is a no brainer in my book. the better outlets have much more low end authority too.
I had the P&S in place for almost 2 years...at the time i thought i was nuts for spending $30 on an outlet! But, after a trial with the Oyaide's it was apparent that outlets designed for electronic gear work better than the std stuff you buy at HD.
my guess is the P&S 5262 i have has nickel in it.
Well, I'm intrigued with this outlet issue, thanx to you all. Someone has sold me a couple of used but brass plated Hubbells for a few bucks. I'm gonna try them out for a month to see what happens. It's a pain in the ears to wait for their break-in to take affect because it sounds muffled and lifeless from the start.
I didn't like Furutech's gold-plated series and wondered if the copper-plated FP-15A would sound similar, warm and spacious but too soft in the top end. Perhaps full-brass outlets are all sound this way and many people who don't like brightness seemed to appreciate it since it's less-fatiguing.
I like the P&S 5262As I've been using. Attach a ceramic magnet to the backstrap being careful to insulate it well with electrician's tape to avoid any shorts. That helps the sonics.
This post is made possible by the generous support of people like you and our sponsors: