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I have been using a pair of Fostex FE167E based BR speakers along with a pair of powered 8" subs this summer, driven by my SEX amp. Nearfield setup, played at low/medium volumes, in a small room.The Fostex 167s have broken in nicely, but I still have an issue with the whizzers every now and then, calling attention to themselves.
Just for giggles and kicks, I ordered a pair of Fostex FF165Ks, to try out. I had read the FFs are better for nearfield setups (such as the nearfield Abbys). I temporally threw them in the BR cabinets, to check out. Even though just a day's worth of break-in, I already can tell these will disappear better in my room, although they are in the wrong cabinet.
So, my question is, can I install these in a pair of the Dayton curved .25 ft.3 cabinets, in the SEXy “sealed" configuration, and get similar results (i.e. rolloff, damping etc.) as if I were using the FE166Es? See link for the specs.
Edits: 09/20/09Follow Ups:
Looks more or less OK; resonance will be a bit lower - I calculate 112Hz - just adjust the sub crossover. Q will be on the high side as well, so watch out for a slight bass bump around the resonance and fiddle with room position to tame it if necessary.
For what it's worth, it's my opinion that the FF165 is "good for near field" because it has a very tiny specified linear excursion, and it won't be turned up as high in the near field. You could reduce the Q (and resonance) with a larger box, but that would exacerbate the excursion limitations. Incidentally, it's easy to confuse excursion limitations with whizzer anomalies in subjective listening. (Yes, I learned this the hard way.) I advise experimenting and keeping as open a mind as you can. It's a lot of fun, and very educational!
Even though the FF165K has the same basket frame as FE166E and FE167E, as Paul noted it is not exactly a drop in replacement for either of them. Terry chose it for the near-field option for the Abbey for good reasons.There are several ways to deal with the whizzer issue, including those listed below.
It took Bob a while to try these out, and I think it's fair to say they (phase plugs and the polka-dots) have generally not been considered hurtful by a wide number of folks that have "blind tested" them.
Disclosure - I am associated with a licensed distributor of the "EnABL" driver modification process.
Edits: 09/21/09
Actually I did installed a pair of Dave's phase plugs in my 167s, did help some. May still try the Enable thing later.
What's really frustrating is the Fostex driver break in process, which I feel is real. Do the aluminum cap Fostexs require the same long break in period?
in my experience, yes - and the 3 metal dust capped drivers that I've heard in the FF series (85,125 & 165) benefit from the EnABL process as well
slightly OT to your original inquiry, but that little FF85K is a bit of an hybrid/orphan in the Fostex series; same UDR surround as seen in Sigma (and perhaps limited edition Japanese audio-phile) drivers - and scary good as a wide-band driver in 2-way/OB, or as nearfield mini-monitor.
back to the FE167, another very cheap and easily reversible trick you might not have tried yet is a small strip of closed cell foam friction fit between the perimeter of the whizzer and main cone (the 98 cent tweak)
jk
Thanks for the reply, Paul. I’m using a digital eq instead of a bsc circuit, which should help things. Should be a fun experiment, those new curved Parts Express boxes look nice.
These are a hard to beat value - but be careful that the corners crush very easily, and if you're not planning on removing the baffle, I'd definitely add some extra blocking and permanently glue in place with epoxy or "gorilla" glue. One M4 machine screw in each corner is certainly a neat trick for magnetic attachment of grille frame, but seems a bit under-engineered to me in terms of structural rigidity and integrity of seal.
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