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In Reply to: RE: Seduction output resistor: important? posted by Caucasian Blackplate on June 30, 2009 at 14:03:41
Thanks CB, I'll leave those output-to-ground resistors alone. But I would like to try tants as the "R1 current setting resistors on the C4S boards". But as usual, descriptions in terms of circuit function escape me. (Maybe it won't be that way forever--I do want to learn.) So could you tell me, in ohms value, say, which resistors those are? Or give me some other way to spot them, despite my circuitry ignorance? Thanks.
The R1 resistors are 237 ohms. There are four of them. There is a 1/2 watt Riken 240 ohm resistor that would probably work fine, but the leads might be a little big for the PC board holes.
I would probably go to Surplussales.com and order four of part number (RMF) 00000237R9FB for the best chance of having something that fits well.
By the way, the most significant improvement that could be made to the stock Seduction when building it in your specified fashion would be to implement the Extended Foreplay III power supply. I have no doubts Grainger can pull this off (e-mail me if you'd like, someone has to try this at some point).
Thanks for the confidence.
I have also heard that you can bypass the LEDs with small voltage 220uF caps. I haven't done that but it was suggested by a fellow Dixie Bottlehead at VSAC 2008.
Remember, YOU are the only one who needs to be happy with the sound of your system
Grainger Morrison
There Is Only One (Grainger Morrison, it seems)
If the cap is large enough (say, 10000uF) it should produce a delayed turn-on. We have not tried this yet, but the new C4S boards (used only in Eros so far) are designed to accommodate that tweak, along with a few other improvements. I expect they will be rolled into other products over the next year or so.
I have read a little about the bypassing on Voltsecond's page. It wouldn't hurt, unless somehow the resistor that biases the diode string fails short. An exploding cap is much more of a sight/sound than a little popping LED.
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